Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

May take you up on that Mitch. Base on the youtube vids I've seen and the documentation it looks pretty straight forward. I'm just making up the external map and wideband interface looms now.

I can't imagine Haltech would have left any surprises for me. Out of the box it should control the fuel pump speed and send the correct TPS signals to the Attessa right? Ive seen lots of other people have issues with these two simple things... Edit: Other ecu's of course... Wolf/vipec etc...

Edited by GTRNUR

High/low fuel pump control is hard set at 5% throttle opening (from memory). The TPS follower for the ATTESA 100% works as per factory, as does the injection duty signal to the MFD.

The pre-loaded base map should be enough for you to get started with. Just make sure you load the calibration for your MAP sensor, set your TPS limits, enter your injector characteristics and deadtimes and away you go. Set base timing (i like to lock the CAS all the way clockwise) by enabling the ignition lock and adjusting the trigger angle. Dont forget to set the engine capacity, and if you're running an ethanol blend of fuel without a flex sensor, deduct ~33% from your injection flow rate to allow for the fuel density difference. :cheers:

Not necessary, it just connects to Inj1. The MFD does the rest.

If you were able to program up an 7th injector channel, it would need to be configured to have the same output pulse width as all the other injectors. Also, you would need to put a load on the output, or a pull up resistor to +12v so the MFD would be able to read the variable PWM square wave.

Sorry no dyno time yet.

The Haltech is in now. It idles and revs. Didn't get a chance to drive it anywhere though, nor do anything but do the basic setup on the weekend.

With any luck I can take a day or two off later this week and spend some time on the phone with Mitch.

AI tell me my surge tank is still 2+ weeks away as well.

  • 2 months later...

More changes are still in the works. I've replaced the entire fuel system again after being talked into going down the E85 flex fuel path. So bigger injectors, more pumps, bigger fuel lines, external surge tank and bags of fittings...

It takes for ever to get parts up here too. Pay for overnight and it arrives 3+ days later.

I've yet to source and wire in a flex fuel sensor, and I've got locate a fuel cooler to mount behind the diff too.

The interesting news is that I hope to be getting Mercury Motorsports to come to Cairns to do the final tune and setup of the car. If anyone can get it to produce a good final result, I think they are certainly capable of it.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...