Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

May take you up on that Mitch. Base on the youtube vids I've seen and the documentation it looks pretty straight forward. I'm just making up the external map and wideband interface looms now.

I can't imagine Haltech would have left any surprises for me. Out of the box it should control the fuel pump speed and send the correct TPS signals to the Attessa right? Ive seen lots of other people have issues with these two simple things... Edit: Other ecu's of course... Wolf/vipec etc...

Edited by GTRNUR

High/low fuel pump control is hard set at 5% throttle opening (from memory). The TPS follower for the ATTESA 100% works as per factory, as does the injection duty signal to the MFD.

The pre-loaded base map should be enough for you to get started with. Just make sure you load the calibration for your MAP sensor, set your TPS limits, enter your injector characteristics and deadtimes and away you go. Set base timing (i like to lock the CAS all the way clockwise) by enabling the ignition lock and adjusting the trigger angle. Dont forget to set the engine capacity, and if you're running an ethanol blend of fuel without a flex sensor, deduct ~33% from your injection flow rate to allow for the fuel density difference. :cheers:

Not necessary, it just connects to Inj1. The MFD does the rest.

If you were able to program up an 7th injector channel, it would need to be configured to have the same output pulse width as all the other injectors. Also, you would need to put a load on the output, or a pull up resistor to +12v so the MFD would be able to read the variable PWM square wave.

Sorry no dyno time yet.

The Haltech is in now. It idles and revs. Didn't get a chance to drive it anywhere though, nor do anything but do the basic setup on the weekend.

With any luck I can take a day or two off later this week and spend some time on the phone with Mitch.

AI tell me my surge tank is still 2+ weeks away as well.

  • 2 months later...

More changes are still in the works. I've replaced the entire fuel system again after being talked into going down the E85 flex fuel path. So bigger injectors, more pumps, bigger fuel lines, external surge tank and bags of fittings...

It takes for ever to get parts up here too. Pay for overnight and it arrives 3+ days later.

I've yet to source and wire in a flex fuel sensor, and I've got locate a fuel cooler to mount behind the diff too.

The interesting news is that I hope to be getting Mercury Motorsports to come to Cairns to do the final tune and setup of the car. If anyone can get it to produce a good final result, I think they are certainly capable of it.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...