Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Also it looks like you've hit some sort of flow restriction (possibly the rear housing as stated earlier) as it holds around the 500 rwkw mark for around 2500 rpm!

What intercooler are you running?

Perhaps down the track a little an EFR9180 with the 1.45 twin scroll will be the way to go to get more top end without sacrificing too much low end. This motor has achieved what I wanted it to do now though. The next two engines are where I'm going to pursue more power.

The intercooler is a genuine Nismo core and is most likely not the restriction, however its had a lot of miles on it and has had some decent stone strikes. It will be replaced most likely with a hypertune core at some stage.

The 6466 will go 550+kw easily if I up the MAP sensor to a 4 or 5 bar. The 525kw was far from being optimised. There was no point tuning it at the limit of the MAP sensor as the ability to detect an over boost situation no longer exists. The 30kw gain from just 2psi shows the engine is still waking up at this pressure level despite the top end drop off.

For the moment I am very happy with the setup. I want to make the car look a little more pretty next, in case someone wants to photograph it.

  • Like 1

I have confirmed the rev limit soft cut was 7500 RPM.

The two graphs on the dyno sheet were actually 4th gear 7500 rpm and 5th 6000 rpm pulls.

The 5th gear run was an aborted run due to an intake hose blowing off. It stopped at 6000 RPM. Trent switched to 4th gear after the hose blew off for the third time, and did the 4th gear pull.

The chart below is RPM vs KW and NM.

post-26553-0-20302500-1450185308_thumb.png

Edited by GTRNUR
  • 1 month later...

Nothing real significant at this stage. Ive been driving the car whenever its not raining, which hasn't been that often up here unfortunately.

When doing some maintenance today, I was under the car and discovered I've done a right front CV boot. Grease splattered all over my newly painted TE37s. Such is GTR ownership...

Machining of the next two blocks is coming along nicely. Billet main cams, ARP stud kits and girdle plates installed. Sleeving next week all going well.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Mate.. I'm definitely interested in getting one built. I'm in Mackay so not too far away, plus as mentioned in the other thread I have mates you might know.

I'm actually a tuner too. Are you taking orders yet?

Sorry no I'm not taking orders yet, but I can say that one of the two engines being built at the moment will be for sale. That is once we see our first 4 digit power figure in testing.

The price is going to be quite high as it is not a large production run, and also the two builds are being done with no expense spared. Every part is now custom built for huge strength. ARP625 studs throughout, pistons that cost more than a complete rebuild, special coatings and materials, and a couple more experimental refinements.

Here's a sneek peek of one of the bottom end's before sleeving. Steel billet main caps + girdle plate with 12mm studs. I am trialing a Platinum Racing girdle plate on the second engine.

post-26553-0-40326200-1455258092_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4

Hey Mate.. I'm definitely interested in getting one built. I'm in Mackay so not too far away, plus as mentioned in the other thread I have mates you might know.

I'm actually a tuner too. Are you taking orders yet?

Haha Jono, I see you found him, couldn't help yourself could you.

Haha Jono, I see you found him, couldn't help yourself could you.

ahaha yep. I am keen as hell. I would sort this out over 12 months. And this guy looks like he knows his shit. I would rather spend the same money on a RB34 than a RB28

  • 1 month later...

Not much to report on really. I'm getting used to driving the car, and have decided I want to fix what is holding back the current setup from making 800+ and having that utterly terrifying top end acceleration. So a few weeks ago I placed a few more orders and now the parts are rolling in.

In the short term I am sticking with the 6466 and have just got a 1.30 housing upgrade for it, to allow the engine to breath better in top end. From what the 3.4lt supra guys tell me, I'm going to notice very little drop in response, yet will gain power that climbs to redline. I'm will be maxing out the injectors too, so another fuel pump upgrade is again in order. I'm swapping out the 044's and am installing a pair of walbro 460's instead, having now worked out how to mount them so they prime properly.

Under the bonnet I've changed the oil separator to a custom Autech style oil unit of my own design. I use a cone at the high end for the can as the vapour outlet, and there is 5 layers of oil separation baffles inside the can, with a return to sump drain at the low side.

On the next two engine front, I have the cylinder head for the lower spec motor now. Ported, +1/+1, Tomei 280/11.5's with supertech valves and springs. I'm still having a hold up with big cylinder head. Parts delays are the worst as they bring projects to a stand still...

  • 4 months later...
40 minutes ago, NISR32.5 said:

Any news on these mate?

Yes some progress has been made.  All parts to complete the next two engines are in the hands of the machine shop awaiting final machining.  If things are completed on time I'll have everything ready to assemble the "insane spec" RB33 next Friday. The RB32 that will follow will be a few more weeks after that.

I changed my business name to Project RB recently too, and dropped open deck engines as none of the new engines are open deck anyway.

I completed a 900km day trip about in the car about a month ago and have been driving every day that I can when its not raining. I believe there is about 16,000km on the new setup now.  The long road trip revealed that my alternator can't keep up with the rest of the higher than normal electrical load in the car, so I've got a 150A alternator upgrade going in soon.

That's about all.  Fingers crossed for no more delays.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...