Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls.

I picked up my car after quite a few hassles on friday from them not checking the parts they received to be correct.

The car had been in the spray shop for just under two months.

Origionally I had a slight ding on the front end which didn't damage the front bumper but popped the front head lights, nudged the bonnet lip back around 2cm's and in turn nudging back the radiator support panel back a little damaging the radiator shroud and radiator a little.

I asked them to repair a few little dings and bad paint.

I ended up telling them to spray the whole car as the front half was already being sprayed.

I got the feeling they are very unorganised as when picking the car up the GT badges on the front guards were missing and the front doors were not lined up as they had not been adjusted.

I washed the car on saturday and made a list of everything I could pick.

AM I BEING TOO PICKY?????

or what would you not worry about in the list.

Thanx ppls..

I always seem to get the short straw when dealing with anything to do with cars :P

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

All the little things in the list I did ask to be done.

I was there roughly 1-2 times per week popping my head in & pushing them along.

Every single time the bloke didn't remember me having to ask what car I sent in. :P

Also I didn't get my friggin Type-M head lights. I got some other standard ones that I think look crap.

Yer I thought so.. Because I was popping in every so often I could see the progress. Everything happened quickly.. then it sat like that for weeks. Then it was painted and sat there for another couple of weeks. Then a couple of days before I said I really need my car back now they fitted all the bits only to realise the front bar they got was incorrect (not Type-M) as where the front lights.

I was unable to track down any Type-M head lights. :P

I've taken a few pics... The quality isn't the best as my camera had trouble in the dusk light and focusing in on a black colour.

Joel that's pretty shit-house...I'd go straight back down there and demand a refund....I had a problem similar to that with my car...except I had some really good fingerprints on the basecoat...which appeared like holograms in the light! also had the same thing where the mirrors were left on when the door was sprayed, all the paint ended up delaminating underneath where it wasn't applied properly. They also left the windows in resulting in a shitty spray!

Why are you being picky? because you wanted a good quality job? Thats your right.

Go back there and demand that they fix all those screwups. I have recently had my car painted also and I noticed even the slightest discrepency and made it known to them.

It sounds like they simply havent taken due car when masking the car for paint or when performing the reassembly and have failed to complete the work to a satisfactory standard.

Hey Joel,

Well that list is really long and by the sounds of things, that car has had an apprentice or shit tradesman working on it. Roughly how much did they charge/quote(if you haven't paid, don't). You definantly have a case so I would call consumer affairs if they won't pay for the damage to be fixed or give you a refund. Don't let them fix the damage though. You might be best to go to your local holden, etc bodyworks and ask them for a quote(my mate used too work for holden and they were fussy as shit). This way you have a definate list of the problems they have caused from a professional.

Good Luck Mate.

Where do I stand with getting them to fix up big run marks that extend from the left rear guard to the passenger door where that protruding V lump bit runs from the front to the back of the car?

Obviously its going to need to be sanded back and resprayed.

EDIT: Damn.. the runs are also on the right hand side in the same spot :P

For 4k I would be wanting them too pay for someone else to fix the damage or go to consumar affairs- that job is not professional and lets down the quality of your engine/ car in general.  I doubt they will give you a full refund though...

:werd:

I was recently quoted 6K for a full respray from a very reputable Melb spray shop. For that sort of money (dammit, for $4K) it should be PERFECT. No ifs, buts, maybes.

For that sort of money it should be a glass out, bumper / doors off job. Looks ordinary.

I would take a pic but mine is a gtr - and anyway, my front end was remodelled today :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...