Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I actually think the Mines cams would work well as an 'off the shelf'... I think they are around 250° duration and over 10mm lift; might be stock base circle too which would save you some more hassle, can anyone confirm?

You need to choose a cam then select a suitable spring, talk to someone from Ferrea they are a top quality product in terms of head components.

Kelford do there own springs . If its to dear to get a custom grind then that might be an option .

Probably the same reason he had 272 with 8 something lift

Well the reason for the 6:1 is because when my 26/30 was first built by white brothers racing there was not much to choose from and had to use rb30 dishtop pistons. Brad from spool imports only uses camtech cams. He has built more motors then everyone together on sau. He now builds stroked 30/26 motors and selling them back to the japs. He has tried all different setups and knows what works best. So if you have never heard of people using camtech cams maybe you should do some research and not be so naive. Brad from spool is a good mate of mine and has advised me on everything with my new build and for someone that builds and sells well over 500 motors a yr with good comment about his motors world wide. I know who I would listen to. Not some half wit on a fourm

  • Like 2

He hand builds 500 motors a year, really in 365 days, well I'll tell you what, I don't build motors for a living or work on cars for a living for that matter, its a hobby for me and I have done all the setup and building of both my cars

My R32 GTR with stock turbos and most every thing else except for a few select parts I chose myself makes 293rwkw and has run 11.1@123mph, how does your mates motors go

My R34 GTR I designed and built from the ground up myself with the factory look being the only restrictor made 623hp at all 4 and still have to do cams and hope weather dependent will run it tomorrow night

Don't be mistaking tool, I'm not some dyno show car whore and a pretty peaky graph doesn't excite me, my cars are built to go fast

One thing I have learnt over the years is just because you do it for a living doesn't mean your any good and personally I wouldn't touch a spool engine, maybe that's why he sends them overseas, cause I'm not alone

  • Like 1
I didn't get opinions from a bunch or forum members (the majority have no idea), I went out did some research, bought some books and talked to the right people. You need to do the same and come to your own decision.

Ok I spoke to kelford and I think they are the people in the know and who I can trust as rob from rips uses them for all his builds they know what they are talkinh avout and are not just trying to sell me a set of cams or do a ported head for me just to make the money they advise all the customers what to use and how to go about things

Kelford dont just make the ports bigger in fact they they take out the minimum to make sure they get not only air flow numbers at the right points but also work to very strict port velocity as to not upset low down power making, that is except for the monsters that need to make power at high revs

Kelford make cars go fast for a living and are very good at it look at robs cars he has built are they slow ?????? I know who I would trust with knowledge !

182 -s kelford cams I am going with 10.8 lift

  • Like 1
It sounds like you have it all sorted then, Rob is very good at what he does so no doubt it will give a good result which I'd dear say you'll post up when done yeah ?

Yes I will definitely post up results unknown when car will be running maybbe 3-4 months

He hand builds 500 motors a year, really in 365 days, well I'll tell you what, I don't build motors for a living or work on cars for a living for that matter, its a hobby for me and I have done all the setup and building of both my cars

My R32 GTR with stock turbos and most every thing else except for a few select parts I chose myself makes 293rwkw and has run 11.1@123mph, how does your mates motors go

My R34 GTR I designed and built from the ground up myself with the factory look being the only restrictor made 623hp at all 4 and still have to do cams and hope weather dependent will run it tomorrow night

Don't be mistaking tool, I'm not some dyno show car whore and a pretty peaky graph doesn't excite me, my cars are built to go fast

One thing I have learnt over the years is just because you do it for a living doesn't mean your any good and personally I wouldn't touch a spool engine, maybe that's why he sends them overseas, cause I'm not alone

Look bud first thing is how stupid you just made your self sound. Your car originally came from os. And I really dont think the japs would be buying his stroked motor if they were no good like you make out. Especially with the technology they have. So in other words if the japs are shit and only buy shit why do you drive a jap car... lol

2nd thing. Yes my car was a show car before I owned it making 450hp. I use it as a day to day driver and used a spool race prep head and made 550hp with the 6:1 comp. Now the new spool motor is over 1000hp and used day to day. Aint no show car.

3rd thing if your gtrs are half as good and fast as you make out. Why not bring it up to the winter nats here at qld and put it beside spools street trim gtr and sort it out on the track. Of course you will say you would win so there for there aint no reason why you shouldn't unless your scared and cant back the shit you dribble

Each to there own. I have been bitten my many different shops/builder and tuners and brad from spool is one of the olny that is true to his word and wont sell something to make a buck. Check his site out and judge for your self.

It sounds like you have it all sorted then, Rob is very good at what he does so no doubt it will give a good result which I'd dear say you'll post up when done yeah ?

You can lead a horse to water... etc.

You can lead a horse to water... etc.

I know right, what's getting me is he came in here asked us out opinions and then when we give then to best of the knowledge we have learnt over the years which is mostly spot on and its not what he wanted to hear he gets defensive and slaps us in the face by telling us cause we don't do it for living we must have no idea and does what he was going to in the first place, so why on earth ask a question you don't want the answer to

What worse is he will make good power then go around misleading everyone by telling everyone its cause of the 272 duration without realising the whole time it was the 10.8mm lift, I just hope one day he gets to try the same car setup the same way with the only change being the cams back to the 260s with the same lift we advised him to get in the first place so he can learn what we already have

A smart man learns from his experiences, a smarter man learns from other people's

182-S sounds about there....270-274 10.5 lift....noted its good on E85 if you want to boost it.....

http://www.camshaftshop.com/products.php?productid=41337

If you have a laggy turbo and want quicker spool 182-C, 272, 10mm lift.

http://www.camshaftshop.com/products.php?productid=1021#specs

The website has all the info.

Id be leaning towards the S if racing and C if needing more street drivability.

Ok I spoke to kelford and I think they are the people in the know and who I can trust as rob from rips uses them for all his builds they know what they are talkinh avout and are not just trying to sell me a set of cams or do a ported head for me just to make the money they advise all the customers what to use and how to go about things

Kelford dont just make the ports bigger in fact they they take out the minimum to make sure they get not only air flow numbers at the right points but also work to very strict port velocity as to not upset low down power making, that is except for the monsters that need to make power at high revs

Kelford make cars go fast for a living and are very good at it look at robs cars he has built are they slow ?????? I know who I would trust with knowledge !

182 -s kelford cams I am going with 10.8 lift

Ive been sitting back, not posting and having a chuckle while this thread has progressed....

Good that you spoke to some experts with real world experience, its always best to listen those that have done this before and got the results you were looking for.

Yes porting is about the flow, bigger is not always better.

As i said, your in good hands, im surprised you didnt just ask the right people in the first place.

Looking forward to hearing your results when its ready, dont forget to post them. :)

Ive been sitting back, not posting and having a chuckle while this thread has progressed....

Good that you spoke to some experts with real world experience, its always best to listen those that have done this before and got the results you were looking for.

Yes porting is about the flow, bigger is not always better.

As i said, your in good hands, im surprised you didnt just ask the right people in the first place.

Looking forward to hearing your results when its ready, dont forget to post them. :)

Thankyou yes kelford have had a lot of exp and rob uses them that speaks for itself I will post results when running

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

I know right, what's getting me is he came in here asked us out opinions and then when we give then to best of the knowledge we have learnt over the years which is mostly spot on and its not what he wanted to hear he gets defensive and slaps us in the face by telling us cause we don't do it for living we must have no idea and does what he was going to in the first place, so why on earth ask a question you don't want the answer to

What worse is he will make good power then go around misleading everyone by telling everyone its cause of the 272 duration without realising the whole time it was the 10.8mm lift, I just hope one day he gets to try the same car setup the same way with the only change being the cams back to the 260s with the same lift we advised him to get in the first place so he can learn what we already have

A smart man learns from his experiences, a smarter man learns from other people's

Came on the site to get some help, listened to a lot of blokes and followed advice from people that have been doing a lot of their own work and checked their results. I am doing a RB30/3.2L Nitto stroker and taking their advice and going with the EU, 260 10.8 cams , so I guess I will find out how good the advice was :yes:

Has Daniel finished the build yet, love to see the results :yes:

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...