Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if it is a R32 box and the fuse is pulled so pump can't prime, it will be rwd just like an R32..

there is also another method outlined in the workshop manual which involves pulling the bleed connection, which is above your right knee when in drivers seat, then when you turn the ignition on press the brake pedal 5 times quickly and awd light will flash and you are in rwd...

either will be fine

or install Full Race ETS pro controller, has a switch, much easier

Sweet. Well the shaft idea works as we all know. But it's pretty hard to heat up the rears prior to a 1/4 in 4wd. I run achillies 123s and find them bloody great but way better with a bit of heat in them. I'm going to try the switch on the pump trick. Sound pretty ligit if it's in the manual.

So kick panel next to drivers feet.

Pump with two wires.

Un plug. Or use switch

Pump break until light flashes and stays flashing.

Rwd.

Turn car off.

Plug back in. Or use switch

Turn on.

4wd. Launch with hot tyres.

pretty much, but the plug you are looking for is tucked up near the bonnet release. I've had 2 R33's and on the 97 series3 it was yellow wires white plug, but on my 95 it is yellow wire brown plug, its just a connector with one wire out either side..

Ok sweet. Mines a 96 so could be either. So I put a missile switch in line on which wire? Thanks mate. Really sound advise. I don't mess with stuff until I'm sure I'm not going to kill my baby. First chance to do a ligit 1/4 this Friday night. I'd say it will get banned first pass though. She's not slow! It really shows it's power from 140+ and LOVES 250+. But... No cage.

Go back thru that link I posted and on the second page there is pic of the connector you are looking for. Should be the brown one. Just replace that with a switch. Have a good read of all 3 pages.

Good luck at the drags. Let us know what u run.

  • 1 month later...

There is no plug with one wire going in each side sadly. I can't for the life of me find it. There is literally no plug. There is however a white plug with two yellow and green wires. Is that it?

Probably. Just pull the plug out to see. The light should come on on the dash. then follow the procedure. If its the right one then just insert a switch in the circuit.
Cheers. Will do. It pisses in 11's but here's hoping for a ten. Big on drive it how it is on the street so sub and seats stay in...

You'd hope so, you only need 450-470rwhp in a full weight 33 to get in the low 11s and 120-124 mp. zone :-)

With 600+... Shouldn't even need to warm tyres, should just do it even with a average launch and tie power will sort the rest out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...