Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Parting out r34 Sedan, most parts available, except front end panels

Rb25det NEO Motor has passed inspection 170psi across the board, race series bearings, has forged pistons, adj. ex cam gear, arp head studs, metal triple layer headgasket, gates racing timing belt, head has port and polish work done. Sold as a long motor with alternator, pwr steer pump and all covers. $4000

RB25 Forward facing plenum with Siemens 630cc injectors, PFI rail and reg with gauge, billet 80mm throttle body with braided fuel lines and speed flow fittings $800

GT3037 4" inlet in very good condition, braided lines and speed flow fittings, stainless steel high mount manifold with adaptor plate for external gate, intake pipe, dump pipe $1600

NEO super spark coil packs $300

Complete manual conversion, r34 turbo box, Exedy cushion button clutch 70%, mount, x member, flywheel, pedals, master slave and lines, tailshaft and shifter, everything you need!! $1600

BC coilovers type BR for r34,front and rear, stiff springs, no leaks $700

Rear adjustable camber arms $80

Front adjustable castor arms $120

Haltech E11v2 with adapted NEO turbo manual loom with boost control solenoid and map sensor, ready for sale $900

R34 sedan rear bar VGC black $100

R34 sedan tail lights in primer $100 pair

Door cards good cond. $25ea

Dash $100

Front and rear seats good cond. $200

Centre console $100

Master cylinder and booster $50

Abs unit $100

Complete good condition boot interior and rubber seal $80

Front brakes pads and rotors vgc pads $200

All door windows, regs, switches and door shells available in black

All interior parts avail

R34 sedan side mirrors vgc In black $80 pair

​msg or PM for pics

Call/msg Johnny 0414696256
Located in runaway bay - Gold Coast

Coilpacks, Haltech, Rear Bar, Tail lights, Door cards, Rear Seats, Centre console, Front brakes pads and rotors, Master cylinder and booster, Abs unit are still available, all else is sold.

Sorry, Drogba brakes are sold also, but check your PM

Also still have the fascia surround for stereo, and couple of interior bits and engine bits still available

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...