Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I finished putting my bottom end together yesterday but it wasn't till I'd finished and turned the engine around to look at the top that I realised how far the peak of the pistons protrude out of the block.

Has anyone done a high comp RB and seen that amount of piston out of the block? Obviously I'll find out when I sit the head on but is there enough combustion chamber to even fit that much protrusion??

The pistons are custom CP 9.5:1.

I'd appreciate some input!

C4C3F9B4-3692-4F0E-8218-8BCA95DDB56C.jpg

F4D7CE71-5A80-451E-B43B-0791A428D6E9.jpg

Ok cool. I googled images but couldn't find any decent shots showing so much protrusion.

I'll gently sit the head on when I get a chance and I'll soon know. I'll be nervous as all hell the first time I turn it over with the cam belt on!

Thanks for the responses guys, giving me a little bit of hope!

Thanks god it's got the valve reliefs in the pistons cause I think it's going to need that extra 1mm of clearance!

As a trial engine, I'm running RB25 pistons with the deck skimmed 30 thou to get them up flush with the deck. Also gives 9.5:1 compression and I have a similar amount of piston sticking up past the block as you do so I think you'll be fine.

To get 9.5:1 on an RB30 bottom end with an RB25/26 head you're running about the same amount of piston dome as a standard RB25/26 so you shouldn't have any issues.

Fit the head on with a few weak mockup valve springs and the cams your running to the correct valve clearance, use a old known thickness HG, put some plasticine on the pistons, fit cam belt on and very gently turn the engine over by hand for 2 full turns feeling for binding.

You want about 60 thou or 1.5mm valve to piston minimum clearance, better 80 thou or 2mm, any less than that is very dangerous and you might have them meet at high RPM....more clearance the better to allow for rod stretch and valve float.

As a trial engine, I'm running RB25 pistons with the deck skimmed 30 thou to get them up flush with the deck. Also gives 9.5:1 compression and I have a similar amount of piston sticking up past the block as you do so I think you'll be fine. this is what I have done, RB25 14cc dome tops with 26 head and 9.53:1, no issues yet and the engine has been running since January

To get 9.5:1 on an RB30 bottom end with an RB25/26 head you're running about the same amount of piston dome as a standard RB25/26 so you shouldn't have any issues. there is actually more clearance with the 30 bottom end then the 25/26, cause 500cc getting compressed at 9.5 parts to 1 means 1 is a bigger area then 428cc getting compressed 9.5 to 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...