Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Motor is just about ready to be assembled. R32 25de head + 30e bottom end. The nagging misus about time and money has unfortunately made me to decide not get the motor balanced. Secondly im running fully stock bottom end except for ACL race bearings, main and bottom and chromoly piston rings.

Do i need to be worried?..i initially didn't think it wasn't an issue since i was using the same internal components that were from the same block. Crankshaft has been polished and 25de head has been skimmed and cams polished with gtr valve springs etc.

Has anyone done a full build without balancing it?..

thanks for your time.

Cheers in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436346-rb30det-buildnot-balanced/
Share on other sites

I'd say a huge number of engines are built without being balanced. Most non performance builds would never get balanced.

Get the crank balanced then just weight match the rest yourself. Easy to remove weight off the heaviest rods and pistons. With crank balanced and pistons and rods balanced as a pair to within 1 gram of each other it will be perfect. Well worth the effort to protect your oil pump amongst other more obvious benefits.

  • Like 1

Mass produced stock reco rebuilds never get balanced, most rebuilders do this as the engine is considered just a A to B engine and not a revver, its also to keep costs down and to make more money on the engine.

If you are going to give it some stick, its very important to get it balanced, the harmonics and weight thrown around at RPM can want to tear the engine apart.

Having said that, i always balanced all my stock rebuilds as a matter of being fussy, all except 1 that i rebuilt for my father who didnt want to spend, it lasted for over 200,000 Km on a stock rebuild and it was a Corrolla engine that he use to thrash to make the car move as it was only a 1.3L.

Edited by GTRPSI
  • Like 1

My engine is the same as yours... stock bottom end with new rings, bearings but plus new rod bolts. It has not been balanced. The rev limit is 7000 but I usually change up at around 6500 (on the track - on the road its about 2000!) and never sit on the rev limiter. Currently on 314 AWKW. and done about 50,000km over three years.

Having said that if I were to do it again I would prefer to save up for a rebore, high compression forgies and a new harmonic balancer all fully balanced.

  • 2 weeks later...

Heya TEX,

I balance every engine I touch.

Not only does it allow a higher rev limit and better response, it'll also reduce the harmonic issues associated with an inline six further reducing the chance of cracking the oil pump gear.

A balance should be ~$200 for a 6cyl, so it isn't 'stupid expensive'.

If you disassembled the engine and marked every rod/piston position, you'd have a reasonably good chance of it being OK if you changed none of the rotating assembly.

Otherwise buy/borrow a GOOD digital scale and match the rods/pistons yourself, will be cheaper than paying someone to dynamically balance your engine and better than just guessing.

Hope it helped.

Mark :)

The only problem most would have doing it themselves is not being able to match the small ends and the big ends of the conrods. Which quite often can be out a fair amount. Without the proper jigging to do that process you are really only matching the overall weight.

Which I guess is better then nothing...

Heya R33_RACER,

Static balancing of small/big ends is pretty straight forward with a simple jig and a few hours of spare time.

That's going the next step and one I didn't bother discussing as it was beyond the original question regarding simple balancing.

I do agree rod balancing is worthwhile on performance engines, especially high revving examples.

Mark :)

Indeed it is. I just wanted to make sure people knew it wasn't just as simple as matching rod/piston weights, especially when it comes to performance/race builds.

However, I get where you are coming from in regards to answering the original question. Quite often its easier to just give a simple answer rather then taking ages to go in depth explaining every facet to a certain process or method. More often then not its not really needed.

Edited by r33_racer
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...