Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peeps,

So, I'm up to my second 5k service and thought I'd do it myself. I've never done one before so I was wondering what is actually done in a 5k service so I can purchase the goods :D

Also, I have no idea on what type of oil to use or anything of the such, so specifics would be great.

R34 GTT (RB25DET NEO)

Cheers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/
Share on other sites

Ryco z145 oil filter

Ryco z200 fuel filter

Nulon 10-40w synthetic oil.

Clean pod.

Drive.

Would the Shell servo down the road supply that oil? Where do I get the other bits and pieces? Supercheap or something?

cheers

Do you know what spark plugs you have at the moment?

I do not - not sure if gapped or whatnot. I haven't checked.

Edited by RosieR34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/#findComment-7144718
Share on other sites

Hey peeps,

So, I'm up to my second 5k service and thought I'd do it myself. I've never done one before so I was wondering what is actually done in a 5k service so I can purchase the goods :D

Also, I have no idea on what type of oil to use or anything of the such, so specifics would be great.

R34 GTT (RB25DET NEO)

Cheers :D

There are so many threads on all this information in forced induction. If you bothered to search instead of being lazy you would find an abundance of information. For someone that has such a high post count you really are a noob. Edited by Pattey21
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/#findComment-7144753
Share on other sites

There are so many threads on all this information in forced induction. If you bothered to search instead of being lazy you would find an abundance of information. For someone that has such a high post count you really are a noob.

I am very aware of the search feature and the abundance of information. But I prefer speaking with my little tight knit community and getting their opinions- you know, creating discussion and such? After all it is Monday morning.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/#findComment-7144764
Share on other sites

Lol

Rob's Autoservice in Dunlop. He will learn you !!

Take Wallet with monies and the willingness to follow instruction and get your hands dirty.....

I think Rob is a bit busy these days - Skywagon and all ! haha

Was going to crack open the YouTube and try my luck there. A lot of people seem to do their own 5k so i thought it shouldn't be that hard(:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/#findComment-7144774
Share on other sites

I have heard of the search feature and the abundance of information it has. But I prefer putting in little effort and getting my post count above 2k before christmas would be awesome!

That's what I read.

At the very least have a browse first and have some idea. Starting up new threads about such covered fundamental information just dumbs down the A.C.T section. There is a wasteland thread after all.

Anyway,

I use penrite HPR5 SN grade fully synthetic, good value for money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/#findComment-7144793
Share on other sites

You undo the sump plug (make sure you have something to catch the oil. Whilst draining pull the spart plugs out. When finished draining take the oil filter off and put new one on (rub a bit of new oil on the seal of the new oil filter. Put sump plug back in. Fill up with oil. Really simple. Unless its a GTR because the oil filter is a bitch to get to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/#findComment-7144802
Share on other sites

Motul turbolight is what i use.

Everyone likes different oil.

A bit of moisturising cream on the hands first, it helps to wash off the oil and stuff afterwards.

Do the filter tight BY HAND not too tight or its hard to get off.

Check other fluids while youre there, coolant, pwr steering, brake, clutch, maybe even check condition and level of gearbox and diff oil.

Clean or replace the air filter.

Change the fuel filter.

Clean battery terminals, and check battery fluid levels.

Some of that aircon cleaner is nice, Autobarn i think. Kills all the mould and stuff in there.

Tyres, tread depth, pressure. Make sure ALL wheelnuts are tight.

Have a look at how much brake pads you have left.

Im sure i forgot something......

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/#findComment-7144901
Share on other sites

I think Rob is a bit busy these days - Skywagon and all ! haha Was going to crack open the YouTube and try my luck there. A lot of people seem to do their own 5k so i thought it shouldn't be that hard(:

I will help you. :thumbsup:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/#findComment-7144945
Share on other sites

Motul turbolight is what i use.

Everyone likes different oil.

A bit of moisturising cream on the hands first, it helps to wash off the oil and stuff afterwards.

Do the filter tight BY HAND not too tight or its hard to get off.

Check other fluids while youre there, coolant, pwr steering, brake, clutch, maybe even check condition and level of gearbox and diff oil.

Clean or replace the air filter.

Change the fuel filter.

Clean battery terminals, and check battery fluid levels.

Some of that aircon cleaner is nice, Autobarn i think. Kills all the mould and stuff in there.

Tyres, tread depth, pressure. Make sure ALL wheelnuts are tight.

Have a look at how much brake pads you have left.

Im sure i forgot something......

Check suspension and brakes: Tie rods, ends, bushes (all of them) for movement. Shocks for leaks. Uni joints for movement/play. Brake pads for wear, Brake discs for wear, brake fluid and anything wrong with the brakes.

Check Exhaust for leaks, rust

Check tyres for wear (wheel alignment, camber wear)

I use Penrite oils but because I'm broke I use Shell at the moment (so cheap at Kmart).

In the end, you might just end up doing an oil change and not a service.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/#findComment-7144955
Share on other sites

+1 for Penrite oils. I use HPR15, cause the engine is a bit old, so something a little thicker. I don't know what its like for RB25s, so maybe use a HPR10 or 5.

Also I don't know how hard it is to get to the filter on 25s, I have a fandangle filter claw thing (can get one from Supercheap, IIRC it was like $15 or so) that makes them a breeze to take off. On the 20s, its on the intake side, in the worst spot under the intake mani.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/#findComment-7145069
Share on other sites

+1 for Penrite oils. I use HPR15, cause the engine is a bit old, so something a little thicker. I don't know what its like for RB25s, so maybe use a HPR10 or 5.

Also I don't know how hard it is to get to the filter on 25s, I have a fandangle filter claw thing (can get one from Supercheap, IIRC it was like $15 or so) that makes them a breeze to take off. On the 20s, its on the intake side, in the worst spot under the intake mani.

its under the intake on most cars . Pretty easy to get off.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/#findComment-7145131
Share on other sites

Gotta say, this thread intrigues me...

All this time on SAU and you haven't researched what you need and how to do it?

How do you think I know about these things?

Cooz I says to myself, "Self" I says, "my car is gonna be up for some lovin' in the not too distant future, perhaps I should look into the dos and do nots involved in said lovin'".

"Do I have access to a wealth of knowledge which may enable me to make informed decisions regarding my queries?"

"Yes I do" myself replies, so I then investigate, research and absorb what I can/need to know and act upon it.

Your excuse? :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436381-5k-service/#findComment-7145252
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...