Jump to content
SAU Community

My R34 Gtt Car Problems Thread Please Help Guys

MrRx7s3

By MrRx7s3,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

MrRx7s3 Mentor

MrRx7s3

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys first of all I'll describe my car and I'll keep this thread for all my problems instead of opening up new threads, and yes I will and have search before I ask lol.

Car is a R34 GTT

Mods:

Full 3" exhaust with a split dump and screamer pipe.

Cold Air Intake.

Turbo Smart Boost Tee at 12psi standard turbo.

Front mount intercooler.

Yellow Jacket Coil Packs.

NGK PFR8 plugs.

Apexi Power FC tuned with 211RWKW.

Exedy Heavy Duty Cushion Button Clutch with Lightened Flywheel.

I always use Royal Purple 10/40 oil and Genuine oil filter.

Fuel: Shell V-Power.

Ok so now that thats covered, I recently came up with a problem.

Sometimes when at Idle especially if I'm idling for a while or with the Aircon on I get a greyish/black smoke smells like burnt oil.

This started happening after I had a vacuum leak for a while, ended up being my PCV valve and I have since changed it and went to re-ajust the idle and turned the screw on the AAC, not sure if this has anything to do with it but I'm putting everything out there.

What could be causing the problem?

I've done a at home valve stem seal check (hold the revs to 2500rpm for 2 minutes then snap throttle and check for smoke and it was clear)

My oil is way past it's oil change time and is black and is a little more runnier, I will be changing this tomorrow and I have been thinking of changing over to Penrite Racing 10 what are your thoughts?

Performance wise everything is the same.

I do have quite abit of Shaft Play in the turbo.

Any help and advice is very much appreciated in advance, thanks.

Edited by MrRx7s3
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
MrRx7s3 Mentor

MrRx7s3

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys, quick update and a new problem.

For the smoke problem, it looks like it's solved, did a oil flush and changed the oil and it seems to have stopped now, probably had a sticky ring due to gunk/carbon build up?

New problem: Car wont idle properly and it seems as though the AAC valve isn't working.

Looked up the forum and cleaned and tried to set the idle with the AAC valve and even played with the throttle stop and still it constantly changes its idle and when I turn it on when cold the revs don't go up as they used to to let it warm up, when I turn the A/C on same thing etc, when I disconnect the 2 pin harness from the AAC solenoid nothing changes so my guess is that the AAC Solenoid is stuffed? can someone confirm this for me, also when I adjust the idle from the power FC hand controller nothing happens, how does the ecu adjust the idle is it through the AAC solenoid or something else, if it's the AAC solenoid wheres the best place I can get one from or does someone have one for sale, thanks.

  • 2 weeks later...
B-rice Mentor

B-rice

Posted
Posted

I have the same problem with the car mainly on decel and sometimes during idle. Ive broken it down to these

Valve stem seals
Turbo needing rebuilt

Worn piston seals

Thin oil

PCV valve

I started with changing the PCV and i can now decelerate without any smoke or idle. But I still do get a bit of smoke when I load it up my driveway slowly. Start with the simple things first. If i disconnect my breather hose to the turbo intake i dont get any smoke from the exhaust.

With the idle problem did you clean out your TB, there is some rubber stuff that helps it to seal and people usually scrub it off and the car wont idle well. The rubber stuff tends to look like carbon build up aswell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...