Jump to content
SAU Community

My R34 Gtt Car Problems Thread Please Help Guys

MrRx7s3

By MrRx7s3,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

MrRx7s3 Mentor

MrRx7s3

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys first of all I'll describe my car and I'll keep this thread for all my problems instead of opening up new threads, and yes I will and have search before I ask lol.

Car is a R34 GTT

Mods:

Full 3" exhaust with a split dump and screamer pipe.

Cold Air Intake.

Turbo Smart Boost Tee at 12psi standard turbo.

Front mount intercooler.

Yellow Jacket Coil Packs.

NGK PFR8 plugs.

Apexi Power FC tuned with 211RWKW.

Exedy Heavy Duty Cushion Button Clutch with Lightened Flywheel.

I always use Royal Purple 10/40 oil and Genuine oil filter.

Fuel: Shell V-Power.

Ok so now that thats covered, I recently came up with a problem.

Sometimes when at Idle especially if I'm idling for a while or with the Aircon on I get a greyish/black smoke smells like burnt oil.

This started happening after I had a vacuum leak for a while, ended up being my PCV valve and I have since changed it and went to re-ajust the idle and turned the screw on the AAC, not sure if this has anything to do with it but I'm putting everything out there.

What could be causing the problem?

I've done a at home valve stem seal check (hold the revs to 2500rpm for 2 minutes then snap throttle and check for smoke and it was clear)

My oil is way past it's oil change time and is black and is a little more runnier, I will be changing this tomorrow and I have been thinking of changing over to Penrite Racing 10 what are your thoughts?

Performance wise everything is the same.

I do have quite abit of Shaft Play in the turbo.

Any help and advice is very much appreciated in advance, thanks.

Edited by MrRx7s3
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
MrRx7s3 Mentor

MrRx7s3

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys, quick update and a new problem.

For the smoke problem, it looks like it's solved, did a oil flush and changed the oil and it seems to have stopped now, probably had a sticky ring due to gunk/carbon build up?

New problem: Car wont idle properly and it seems as though the AAC valve isn't working.

Looked up the forum and cleaned and tried to set the idle with the AAC valve and even played with the throttle stop and still it constantly changes its idle and when I turn it on when cold the revs don't go up as they used to to let it warm up, when I turn the A/C on same thing etc, when I disconnect the 2 pin harness from the AAC solenoid nothing changes so my guess is that the AAC Solenoid is stuffed? can someone confirm this for me, also when I adjust the idle from the power FC hand controller nothing happens, how does the ecu adjust the idle is it through the AAC solenoid or something else, if it's the AAC solenoid wheres the best place I can get one from or does someone have one for sale, thanks.

  • 2 weeks later...
B-rice Mentor

B-rice

Posted
Posted

I have the same problem with the car mainly on decel and sometimes during idle. Ive broken it down to these

Valve stem seals
Turbo needing rebuilt

Worn piston seals

Thin oil

PCV valve

I started with changing the PCV and i can now decelerate without any smoke or idle. But I still do get a bit of smoke when I load it up my driveway slowly. Start with the simple things first. If i disconnect my breather hose to the turbo intake i dont get any smoke from the exhaust.

With the idle problem did you clean out your TB, there is some rubber stuff that helps it to seal and people usually scrub it off and the car wont idle well. The rubber stuff tends to look like carbon build up aswell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ShezzDogs
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By ShezzDogs · Posted

      Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...