Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking that I'd rather have some comfort from my 34, heading away from squeaky brakes and blown pipes and gaskets.

I'm thinking about a 180 or an old silvia or something. Not really sure.

Should I bother importing something at this end of the scale or buy local?

What do people think?

This whole 15 year rule gives me some possibilities I guess.

I want to do track work and go to drift days and the like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43655-opinions-on-cheap-car-to-race/
Share on other sites

Adam, definately buy something cheap to race....I wish I had asked myself the question before I took my road car on so many track days

$10k landed in Aus is any car up to 400,000yen, and that includes r32 gtrs, rx7, gtst, 180sx etc etc

Well cant u just import cars to race? IE not comply them or anything?

If so then get a 32GTR

You can, but I've seen cars to be imported for race that require a minimun of a CAMS C3 racing license to be able to import it.

I could be wrong.

I know it aint no Jap import, but i know of a VL with 9" cambered diff, Sparco race seats, Alcon Brakes and rotors, Cams approved roll cage and log book, plus other bits and pieces ebing sold as a roller for $6,000, i was thinking about throwing my running gear into it and having a kick ass circuit car

I'm not sure how serious I want to race so I'm guessing I'll have to road register it. I'm thinking that a GTR could cost some bigger $ to keep happy whereas something smaller with only one turbo might stay within a modest budget.

Would it be easy to get something already modified or would I have compliance issues?

Yeah GTR can get expensive, the other thing you need to think of is what the hell will you fit in with a helmet on :P the 32's a close fit for me, I think you will have heaps of trouble with an S13.

And I'm sure there are ppl around with C3 that can help with the import...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...