Jump to content
SAU Community

Wastegate And Bov Upgrade

Captain Wow

By Captain Wow,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Captain Wow Enthusiast

Captain Wow

Posted
Posted (edited)

I guess it's probably a pretty open ended question, but what's recommended when it comes to wastegate and bov brand and quality wise?

I'm currently running what seems to be a cheap nasty wastegate:post-106462-0-11708300-1387530297_thumb.jpg

I'm really just after quality at a reasonable price as I don't want to be mucking around with dodgy products. Obviously I'm unsure of what boost pressure will be after a tune but I wouldn't imagine it'd be more than 20psi.

And a TurboSmart bov?:post-106462-0-69959000-1387530344_thumb.jpg

I'd like to get something reliable on there before I go for a tune in the new year and from what I've heard, that type of bov has been known to leak so I was looking for something like the HKS ssq that has the pull type relief system :ph34r: so as not to allow boost leak. Ideally I'd like something plumb back as tooot toooing isn't my jam lol.

Any help would be appreciated guys,

Cheers,

- Lance

Edited by Captain Wow
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436576-wastegate-and-bov-upgrade/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I have a synchronic 50mm wastegate and plan to get their recirculating valve (bov) as well. They have impressive engineering (pistons instead of diaphragms) but

(a) they are expensive and

(b) tuners don't like them because they are not familiar with them. It took me a while to work out how to set up my w/g.

Tial seems to be the respected brand in waste gates.

I have an HKS sequential bov at the moment that seems to work ok but

(a) its noisy as ...which is why I want to replace it with a plumbed back type and

(b) if you are buying one there are a lot of realistic looking fakes around

Captain Wow Enthusiast

Captain Wow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers lads. Tial seems to be readably available over here and not silly money so that might be the go for the wastegate. As for the bov, I might look into GFB recalculating one or a good brand at a decent price.

- Lance

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

The Turbosmart Kompact is a great buy for the price, and has worked fine for me for many years now. You may need to swap the springs if it is too tight for your liking, but it is bolt-on.

Any plumb back bov should work fine though. The GTR one has a larger outlet so you may need to muck around with the piping a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • BOLGE
      R34 Plug Identification

      By BOLGE · Posted

      Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...