Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I agree with the absence of information on the dashes.. If you purchased your Racepak products through Haltech, or you have a Haltech IQ3/Haltech ECU, you can call Haltech and get local support.

I just bought a Display Link - will give me access to all of the info accessed by my ecu allow logging and enable me to reduce the number of gauges needed. Only suits Link (or Vipec) though.

http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/DisplayLink

Work of art Sub boy32, fantastic setup, i think ill be doing the same with our setup.

Cheers!

It's beautiful! Where did you get the plate from?

Available from Racepak direct

The software is no different between the Display or Logger versions. In fact I would say that the display dashes are easier to update, set up and configure than the loggers as there's less parameters you need to deal with. It is a bit 'clunky' but once its up and running and you know your way around it, its easy to work with.

The Haltech IQ3's are manufactured for Haltech by Racepak and then are only programmed with a basic layout and packaged with a quick start guide by Haltech.

Love my Haltech Logger :) Anyone feeling lost with theirs I'm happy to help. I highly recommend you hook up the two buttons so you can easily scroll through the 4 available screens and view peak data!

EfGccrLl.jpg

The software maybe the same, but the updates for the Logger and the Display are different, the Display hasn't had a software upgrade in years, where as the Logger has.

Yeah, having the two buttons is great so you can program screens for different duties, i.e Street on one, track day on another etc. I used the two radio buttons on the top left of the dash for them and relabelled them.

Edited by Sub Boy32

Firmware updates are different correct. The current Logger firmware is v24, and current Display is v21 (v22 exists but i've had issues with it). You can get these from Racepak or Haltech. Display firmwares aren't on the Racepak website for some reason, but updated firmware does exist you just have to request it from them.

Also, if you have a Haltech dash, you can send it in to Haltech to be upgraded so that it can receive 20 concurrent channels from the ECU over the usual 15. The upgrade fee is $80.

  • Like 1

Firmware updates are different correct. The current Logger firmware is v24, and current Display is v21 (v22 exists but i've had issues with it). You can get these from Racepak or Haltech. Display firmwares aren't on the Racepak website for some reason, but updated firmware does exist you just have to request it from them.

Also, if you have a Haltech dash, you can send it in to Haltech to be upgraded so that it can receive 20 concurrent channels from the ECU over the usual 15. The upgrade fee is $80.

What was the problems you had with v22?

When you talk about the channel upgrade from 15 to 20, what did that add? Can you get the Odo to work?

What was the problems you had with v22?

When you talk about the channel upgrade from 15 to 20, what did that add? Can you get the Odo to work?

Odd communications problems when trying to program the dash.

It just adds 5 extra channels to display and/or log in the dash from the Haltech. The Odo function works fine. Make sure to tell the dash what channel it is using for speed so it can calculate distance for you.

That's odd, when I spoke to Racepak they told me that I wouldn't be able to get the Odo to work on the Display IQ3?

I'm using the speed output from the Link G4 through CAN Bus, but in the Odo menu on the Racepak Display software it's missing some of the links that the Logger software has.

What does the Haltech use for the speed input? Is it GPS?

vehicle speed sensor.. so whatever the OEM input is generally.

My tuner told me it needed a box to convert the mechanical input from the r32 to an electronic input.

Sub-boy32, is it how you done it ?

but the more I think about it and I just think I will go with a ultraportable laptop 10 inch at 300$ and use that if I ever need to check specific parameters. Don't think I'm enough of a driver to make good use of these reading ( mind you I already have oi/water temp and fuel/oil pressure + A/F)

Edited by cobrAA

My tuner told me it needed a box to convert the mechanical input from the r32 to an electronic input.

Sub-boy32, is it how you done it ?

but the more I think about it and I just think I will go with a ultraportable laptop 10 inch at 300$ and use that if I ever need to check specific parameters. Don't think I'm enough of a driver to make good use of these reading ( mind you I already have oi/water temp and fuel/oil pressure + A/F)

I'm running an R33 speedo sensor in the gearbox, so I've done away with the mechanical cable.

I still think the dash is worth it, I've spent a lot on my engine, and being able to have read outs on all the important sensors is important, and programable warning lights if pressures etc get too low/hi

vehicle speed sensor.. so whatever the OEM input is generally.

this.

just rwad the thread.

those with r32s, the speedo drive is mechanical, but the ecu should still have a vehicle speed in/output.

I believe its how they had the 180km/h limiter.

would it be possible to use this as the speed reference?

havnt dealt with the iq3 yet, but was looking towards one.

interesting reading, will keep an eye on this thread.

Yeah assuming cable is working on the 32 then the electronic input to ecu from dash is fine for reference

If you are taking the factory R32 cluster out like I did, then you will need to convert the mechanical drive to electronic or the ECU won't see a signal. The R32 cluster normally sends the signal.

Yeah, I have an R33 speedo drive.

.....still can't work out how people get their Odo to work on the display version IQ3, the Racepak software is missing some of the sections.

Does the Haltech spec'ed one have it's own software?

If you are taking the factory R32 cluster out like I did, then you will need to convert the mechanical drive to electronic or the ECU won't see a signal. The R32 cluster normally sends the signal.

id be leaving my cluster in, and mounting display in front.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...