Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I agree with the absence of information on the dashes.. If you purchased your Racepak products through Haltech, or you have a Haltech IQ3/Haltech ECU, you can call Haltech and get local support.

I just bought a Display Link - will give me access to all of the info accessed by my ecu allow logging and enable me to reduce the number of gauges needed. Only suits Link (or Vipec) though.

http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/DisplayLink

Work of art Sub boy32, fantastic setup, i think ill be doing the same with our setup.

Cheers!

It's beautiful! Where did you get the plate from?

Available from Racepak direct

The software is no different between the Display or Logger versions. In fact I would say that the display dashes are easier to update, set up and configure than the loggers as there's less parameters you need to deal with. It is a bit 'clunky' but once its up and running and you know your way around it, its easy to work with.

The Haltech IQ3's are manufactured for Haltech by Racepak and then are only programmed with a basic layout and packaged with a quick start guide by Haltech.

Love my Haltech Logger :) Anyone feeling lost with theirs I'm happy to help. I highly recommend you hook up the two buttons so you can easily scroll through the 4 available screens and view peak data!

EfGccrLl.jpg

The software maybe the same, but the updates for the Logger and the Display are different, the Display hasn't had a software upgrade in years, where as the Logger has.

Yeah, having the two buttons is great so you can program screens for different duties, i.e Street on one, track day on another etc. I used the two radio buttons on the top left of the dash for them and relabelled them.

Edited by Sub Boy32

Firmware updates are different correct. The current Logger firmware is v24, and current Display is v21 (v22 exists but i've had issues with it). You can get these from Racepak or Haltech. Display firmwares aren't on the Racepak website for some reason, but updated firmware does exist you just have to request it from them.

Also, if you have a Haltech dash, you can send it in to Haltech to be upgraded so that it can receive 20 concurrent channels from the ECU over the usual 15. The upgrade fee is $80.

  • Like 1

Firmware updates are different correct. The current Logger firmware is v24, and current Display is v21 (v22 exists but i've had issues with it). You can get these from Racepak or Haltech. Display firmwares aren't on the Racepak website for some reason, but updated firmware does exist you just have to request it from them.

Also, if you have a Haltech dash, you can send it in to Haltech to be upgraded so that it can receive 20 concurrent channels from the ECU over the usual 15. The upgrade fee is $80.

What was the problems you had with v22?

When you talk about the channel upgrade from 15 to 20, what did that add? Can you get the Odo to work?

What was the problems you had with v22?

When you talk about the channel upgrade from 15 to 20, what did that add? Can you get the Odo to work?

Odd communications problems when trying to program the dash.

It just adds 5 extra channels to display and/or log in the dash from the Haltech. The Odo function works fine. Make sure to tell the dash what channel it is using for speed so it can calculate distance for you.

That's odd, when I spoke to Racepak they told me that I wouldn't be able to get the Odo to work on the Display IQ3?

I'm using the speed output from the Link G4 through CAN Bus, but in the Odo menu on the Racepak Display software it's missing some of the links that the Logger software has.

What does the Haltech use for the speed input? Is it GPS?

vehicle speed sensor.. so whatever the OEM input is generally.

My tuner told me it needed a box to convert the mechanical input from the r32 to an electronic input.

Sub-boy32, is it how you done it ?

but the more I think about it and I just think I will go with a ultraportable laptop 10 inch at 300$ and use that if I ever need to check specific parameters. Don't think I'm enough of a driver to make good use of these reading ( mind you I already have oi/water temp and fuel/oil pressure + A/F)

Edited by cobrAA

My tuner told me it needed a box to convert the mechanical input from the r32 to an electronic input.

Sub-boy32, is it how you done it ?

but the more I think about it and I just think I will go with a ultraportable laptop 10 inch at 300$ and use that if I ever need to check specific parameters. Don't think I'm enough of a driver to make good use of these reading ( mind you I already have oi/water temp and fuel/oil pressure + A/F)

I'm running an R33 speedo sensor in the gearbox, so I've done away with the mechanical cable.

I still think the dash is worth it, I've spent a lot on my engine, and being able to have read outs on all the important sensors is important, and programable warning lights if pressures etc get too low/hi

vehicle speed sensor.. so whatever the OEM input is generally.

this.

just rwad the thread.

those with r32s, the speedo drive is mechanical, but the ecu should still have a vehicle speed in/output.

I believe its how they had the 180km/h limiter.

would it be possible to use this as the speed reference?

havnt dealt with the iq3 yet, but was looking towards one.

interesting reading, will keep an eye on this thread.

Yeah assuming cable is working on the 32 then the electronic input to ecu from dash is fine for reference

If you are taking the factory R32 cluster out like I did, then you will need to convert the mechanical drive to electronic or the ECU won't see a signal. The R32 cluster normally sends the signal.

Yeah, I have an R33 speedo drive.

.....still can't work out how people get their Odo to work on the display version IQ3, the Racepak software is missing some of the sections.

Does the Haltech spec'ed one have it's own software?

If you are taking the factory R32 cluster out like I did, then you will need to convert the mechanical drive to electronic or the ECU won't see a signal. The R32 cluster normally sends the signal.

id be leaving my cluster in, and mounting display in front.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...