Jump to content
SAU Community

Haltech Iq3 Display : A Worthwhile Upgrade ?

cobrAA

By cobrAA,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mitchee Proficient

Mitchee

Posted
Posted

I agree with the absence of information on the dashes.. If you purchased your Racepak products through Haltech, or you have a Haltech IQ3/Haltech ECU, you can call Haltech and get local support.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I just bought a Display Link - will give me access to all of the info accessed by my ecu allow logging and enable me to reduce the number of gauges needed. Only suits Link (or Vipec) though.

http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/DisplayLink

Sub Boy32 Rising Star

Sub Boy32

Posted
Posted

Work of art Sub boy32, fantastic setup, i think ill be doing the same with our setup.

Cheers!

It's beautiful! Where did you get the plate from?

Available from Racepak direct

Sub Boy32 Rising Star

Sub Boy32

Posted
Posted (edited)

The software is no different between the Display or Logger versions. In fact I would say that the display dashes are easier to update, set up and configure than the loggers as there's less parameters you need to deal with. It is a bit 'clunky' but once its up and running and you know your way around it, its easy to work with.

The Haltech IQ3's are manufactured for Haltech by Racepak and then are only programmed with a basic layout and packaged with a quick start guide by Haltech.

Love my Haltech Logger :) Anyone feeling lost with theirs I'm happy to help. I highly recommend you hook up the two buttons so you can easily scroll through the 4 available screens and view peak data!

EfGccrLl.jpg

The software maybe the same, but the updates for the Logger and the Display are different, the Display hasn't had a software upgrade in years, where as the Logger has.

Yeah, having the two buttons is great so you can program screens for different duties, i.e Street on one, track day on another etc. I used the two radio buttons on the top left of the dash for them and relabelled them.

Edited by Sub Boy32
Mitchee Proficient

Mitchee

Posted
Posted

Firmware updates are different correct. The current Logger firmware is v24, and current Display is v21 (v22 exists but i've had issues with it). You can get these from Racepak or Haltech. Display firmwares aren't on the Racepak website for some reason, but updated firmware does exist you just have to request it from them.

Also, if you have a Haltech dash, you can send it in to Haltech to be upgraded so that it can receive 20 concurrent channels from the ECU over the usual 15. The upgrade fee is $80.

  • Like 1
Sub Boy32 Rising Star

Sub Boy32

Posted
Posted

Firmware updates are different correct. The current Logger firmware is v24, and current Display is v21 (v22 exists but i've had issues with it). You can get these from Racepak or Haltech. Display firmwares aren't on the Racepak website for some reason, but updated firmware does exist you just have to request it from them.

Also, if you have a Haltech dash, you can send it in to Haltech to be upgraded so that it can receive 20 concurrent channels from the ECU over the usual 15. The upgrade fee is $80.

What was the problems you had with v22?

When you talk about the channel upgrade from 15 to 20, what did that add? Can you get the Odo to work?

Mitchee Proficient

Mitchee

Posted
Posted

What was the problems you had with v22?

When you talk about the channel upgrade from 15 to 20, what did that add? Can you get the Odo to work?

Odd communications problems when trying to program the dash.

It just adds 5 extra channels to display and/or log in the dash from the Haltech. The Odo function works fine. Make sure to tell the dash what channel it is using for speed so it can calculate distance for you.

Sub Boy32 Rising Star

Sub Boy32

Posted
Posted

That's odd, when I spoke to Racepak they told me that I wouldn't be able to get the Odo to work on the Display IQ3?

I'm using the speed output from the Link G4 through CAN Bus, but in the Odo menu on the Racepak Display software it's missing some of the links that the Logger software has.

What does the Haltech use for the speed input? Is it GPS?

cobrAA Mentor

cobrAA

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

vehicle speed sensor.. so whatever the OEM input is generally.

My tuner told me it needed a box to convert the mechanical input from the r32 to an electronic input.

Sub-boy32, is it how you done it ?

but the more I think about it and I just think I will go with a ultraportable laptop 10 inch at 300$ and use that if I ever need to check specific parameters. Don't think I'm enough of a driver to make good use of these reading ( mind you I already have oi/water temp and fuel/oil pressure + A/F)

Edited by cobrAA
Sub Boy32 Rising Star

Sub Boy32

Posted
Posted

My tuner told me it needed a box to convert the mechanical input from the r32 to an electronic input.

Sub-boy32, is it how you done it ?

but the more I think about it and I just think I will go with a ultraportable laptop 10 inch at 300$ and use that if I ever need to check specific parameters. Don't think I'm enough of a driver to make good use of these reading ( mind you I already have oi/water temp and fuel/oil pressure + A/F)

I'm running an R33 speedo sensor in the gearbox, so I've done away with the mechanical cable.

I still think the dash is worth it, I've spent a lot on my engine, and being able to have read outs on all the important sensors is important, and programable warning lights if pressures etc get too low/hi

luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

vehicle speed sensor.. so whatever the OEM input is generally.

this.

just rwad the thread.

those with r32s, the speedo drive is mechanical, but the ecu should still have a vehicle speed in/output.

I believe its how they had the 180km/h limiter.

would it be possible to use this as the speed reference?

havnt dealt with the iq3 yet, but was looking towards one.

interesting reading, will keep an eye on this thread.

Sub Boy32 Rising Star

Sub Boy32

Posted
Posted

Yeah assuming cable is working on the 32 then the electronic input to ecu from dash is fine for reference

If you are taking the factory R32 cluster out like I did, then you will need to convert the mechanical drive to electronic or the ECU won't see a signal. The R32 cluster normally sends the signal.

Sub Boy32 Rising Star

Sub Boy32

Posted
Posted

Yeah, I have an R33 speedo drive.

.....still can't work out how people get their Odo to work on the display version IQ3, the Racepak software is missing some of the sections.

Does the Haltech spec'ed one have it's own software?

luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

If you are taking the factory R32 cluster out like I did, then you will need to convert the mechanical drive to electronic or the ECU won't see a signal. The R32 cluster normally sends the signal.

id be leaving my cluster in, and mounting display in front.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      Well, after the full circus this week (new gearbag, 14 psi actuator on, injectors and AFM upgraded, and.....turbo repair) the diagnosis on the wastegate is in. It was broken. It was broken in a really strange way. The weld that holds the lever arm onto the wastegate flapper shaft broke. Broke completely, but broke in such a way that it could go back together in the "correct" position, or it could rearrange itself somewhere else along the fracture plane and sit with the flapper not parallel to the lever. So, who knows how and when exactly what happened? No-one will ever know. Was it broken like this the first time it spat the circlip and wedged itself deep into the dump? Or was it only broken when I tried to pry it back into place? (I didn't try that hard, but who knows?). Or did it break first? Or did it break between the first and second event of wierdness? Meh. It doesn't matter now. It is welded back together. And it is now held closed by a 14 psi actuator, so...the car has been tuned with the supporting mods (and the order of operations there is that the supporting mods and dyno needed to be able to be done first before adding boost, because it was pinging on <<14 psi with the new turbo with only a 6 psi actuator). And then tuned up a bit, and with the boost controller turned off throughout that process. So it was only running WG pressure and so only hit about 15-16 psi. The turbo is still ever so slightly lazier than might be preferred - like it is still a bit on the big side for the engine. I haven't tested it on the road properly in any way - just driven it around in traffic for a half hour or so. But it is like chalk and cheese compared to what it was. Between dyno numbers and driving feedback: It makes 100 kW at 3k rpm, which is OK, could be better. That's stock 2JZ territory, or RB20 with G series 550. It actually starts building boost from 2k, which is certainly better than it did recently (with all the WG flapper bullshit). Although it's hard to remember what it was like prior to all that - it certainly seems much, much better. And that makes sense, given the WG was probably starting to blow open at anything above about 3 psi anyway (with the 6 psi actuator). It doesn't really get to "full boost" (say 16 psi) until >>4k rpm. I am hopeful that this is a feature of the lack of boost controller keeping boost pressure off the actuator, because it was turned off for the dyno and off for the drives afterward. There's more to be found here, I'm sure. It made 230 rwkW at not a lot more than 6k and held it to over 7k, so there seems to be plenty of potential to get it up to 250-260rwkW with 18 psi or so, which would be a decent effort, considering the stock sized turbo inlet pipework and AFM, and the return flow cooler. According to Tao, those things should definitely put a bit of a limit on it by that sort of number. I must stress that I have not opened the throttle 100% on the road yet - well, at least not 100% and allowed it to wind all the way up. It'll have to wait until some reasonable opportunity. I'm quite looking forward to that - it feels massively better than it has in a loooong time. It's back to its old self, plus about 20% extra powers over the best it ever did before. I'm going to get the boost controller set up to maximise spool and settle at no more than ~17 psi (for now) and then go back on the dyno to see what we can squeeze out of it. There is other interesting news too. I put together a replacement tube to fit the R35 AFM in the stock location. This is the first time the tuner has worked with one, because anyone else he has tuned for has gone from Z32 territory to aftermarket ECU. No-one has ever wanted to stay Nistuned and do what I've done. Anyway, his feedback is that the R35 AFM is super super super responsive. Tiny little changes in throttle position or load turn up immediately as a cell change on the maps. Way, way more responsive than any of the old skool AFMs. Makes it quite diffifult to tune as you have to stay right on top of that so you don't wander off the cell you wanted to tune. But it certainly seems to help with real world throttle response. That's hard to separate from all the other things that changed, but the "pedal feel" is certainly crisp.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera 路 Posted

      I'm a bit confused by this post, so I'll address the bit I understand lol.  Use an air compressor and blow away the guide coat sanding residue. All the better if you have a moisture trap for your compressor. You'd want to do this a few times as you sand the area, you wouldn't for example sand the entire area till you think its perfect and then 'confirm' that is it by blowing away the guide coat residue.  Sand the area, blow away the guide coat residue, inspect the panel, back to sanding... rinse and repeat. 
    • Rezz
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By Rezz 路 Posted

      The detail level is about right for the money they charge for the full kit... AU$21.00 each issue, 110 issues for a total of $2,300 (I mentioned $2.2K in the first post when the exchange rate was better). $20/week is doable... 馃槓
    • Keeper
      SAUNSW - World Time Attack Challenge - 5 & 6 September

      By Keeper 路 Posted

      If planning on joining us for the day(s) please indicate by filling in this form. https://forms.gle/Ma8Nn4DzYVA8uDHg7
    • soviet_merlin
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By soviet_merlin 路 Posted

      You put the driver's seat on the wrong side! Incredible detail on all of this. It looks like you could learn a lot about the car just from assembling the kit.
脳
脳
  • Create New...