Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was told the vl (rb30) water pump fits the rb25's, but i was just wondering if anyone knew if they fit the rb20det as well??

Also, can anyone give me a quick run down on removal and install of a water pump.

This is how i see it,

*use white out to mark where cas sits on timing cover as i don't have a timing gun

*remove cas

*remove timing cover

*mark appropriate spots with white out so timing belt goes straight back in original position

*remove water pump after draining coolant system

*clean around the area with a rag etc and apply gasket with some gasket goo (any suggestions? )

*install new water pump

*put timing belt back on inline with white marks

*put all covers back on

Any suggestions/tips etc would be great.

cheers

Jayson

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43687-water-pump-queries/
Share on other sites

I reworded my search and got a few more results. So far i have removed mostly everything except for the harmonic balancer. I've cracked the centre nut but now need a harmonic puller to remove it. I paid $74.50 for a rb30 water pump (Protech) and had some gasket goo around so all up it should hopefully only cost me $74.50.

Joel the rb30 water pump seems identical to me. The only difference being that the top 10mm bolt hole is not slotted like the nissan one.

Cheers

Jayson

There is a "powermax" one for like $80 from some parts places I've noticed (supercheap, etc).. Fit sheet says RB26DETT, RB25DET, RB30E, and RB25DE so if you ask me that sounds universal :P

They missed RB20DE and RB20DET and RB30ET. :slap:

  • 2 weeks later...
So it is confirmed the rb20det motor will use an aussie delivered r31 skyline rb30 water pump....

Yes, definitely, absolutely, not a problem, all RB water pumps are interchangeable, go for it, let 'er rip, whack it on, bolts straight up etc etc.

You need to be aware that while they fit, there are slight differences in performance.

The RB20DE pump flows slightly less water at all RPM's (smallest engine, needs less cooling).

The RB26DETT pump flows slightly less water at high rpm (stops cavitation). :)

The RB26DETT N1 pump actually flows less than the standard pump for sustained high rpm use (racing). :idea:

The RB30E and RB30ET pumps are not designed for sustained high rpm (over 7,000 rpm), they are SOHC remember.

The RB20DET and RB25DET pumps are pretty similar in flow, but the impellers look different. :confused:

I think the RB25DE pump is prety much the same as the RB20DE pump but I haven't had them side by side to compare.

Hope that helps

So what would be the right choice of water pump for a lower rpm 800hp Rb30/26

Standard RB26DETT would be my choice. There is one on my RB31DET, so I guess you could say I have put my money (or faith) where my mouth is. :)

  • 3 months later...

sorry for digin the thread up again but im in the process of upgrading my water pump and have a few questions.

i wanted to upgrade to the N1 but syd kid says there is less flow than standard so does that mean for daily use and the occasional track/drift days its not worth it?

does the stock RB26dett water pump flow better than the stock RB25det??

anyone??

Maybe I am the only one who has compared them, but the spec sheet confirms it. The N1 water pump is specifically designed for continuous high rpm use, so it doesn't cavitate. This means it pumps less water around at lower rpm. So if you use your RB26 a lot (only) on the track, an N1 water pump is maybe worthwhile. But driving around the street it will be a handicap, maybe on hot days with the aircon on, in traffic. The RB30 pump is much better for this as it was designed for lower (average) rpm.

That's all for me :birdie:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...