Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, threw a rod on my skyline and am in the process of a rebuild. I'm going for stock internals at this stage due to the fact I'll probably sell it for a gtr upgrade in 6 months or so when I have the money. The question I've come here to ask is, what is a safe amount of power to run through stock internals with my following mods, I really don't want to push it to it's limits, although would love to be able to make some decent power without worrying about something going bang again. If someone can help me out a bit, it would be much appreciated!

Specs are as follows

- Gtx3582r turbo, mild Steele exhaust manifold, all custom alloy piping, HDI intercooler, Greddy intake manifold with 90mm throttle body, Bosch 1000cc injectors, split fire coil packs, turbo smart 45mm hypergate wastegate, turbo smart supersonic bov, m spec alloy radiator, Apexi power FC ecu with z32 Afm and hand controller, full 3 inch turbo back exhaust with dcat, walbro 500kw fuel pump, twin place ceramic clutch. And it's a series 2, 33 gtst.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436889-r33-gtst-rebuild/
Share on other sites

If you're going to sell it in six months why take a risk? Sell off all the gear you mentioned and return it to stock - you'll probably make more money that way and less chance of blowing it up.

  • Like 1

Thanks for the replies so far. At this stage, still unsure whether I want to keep it or not. Will be finding out how much it is to go down the forged track, but if its ridiculous amounts of money, I dont think its worth it unless im aiming for big power. The question is, provided the engine has a fresh rebuild, would it be able to safely handle 270-280rwkw? Thats as far as I really want to go, power wise. I bought the car for 7 grand, so I dont mind spending a bit of cash to make it reliable, so maybe forged is a good option?

Thanks for the replies so far. At this stage, still unsure whether I want to keep it or not. Will be finding out how much it is to go down the forged track, but if its ridiculous amounts of money, I dont think its worth it unless im aiming for big power. The question is, provided the engine has a fresh rebuild, would it be able to safely handle 270-280rwkw? Thats as far as I really want to go, power wise. I bought the car for 7 grand, so I dont mind spending a bit of cash to make it reliable, so maybe forged is a good option?

bit off topic but why the gtx3582 if your going for sub 300kw? or did it come with the car? Maybe try selling that off and getting something like gt/gtx 3071 will be much better to drive at that power level. That powerlevel a good stock 2nd hand motor that hasnt been rebuilt will do it no worries so a fresh one definately no problem aslong assuming things like your tune and maintance is kept up.

Hey, yeah the 3582 come with the car. And thanks, that's definitely something to consider. I've got a pair of tomei 256 poncams here to put in her aswell. With the fresh rebuild I was going to run 300+ but just unsure on how reliable that is, even with a good tune and maintenance kept up to date, I've heard many stories of idiots blowing their engines... But I kept in mind these are guys that thrash their cars redlining flat every gear. I only really drive this car on the weekend. The guy that had it before me thrashed it a bit by the looks of things, so just trying to do things right this time. I would love to go forged for that extra security and peace of mind. So nothing's set in concrete here, just need some help on what path is the wisest to go down. Thanks for the info so far.

Yeah what you say makes complete sense. I'm a little undecided whether to keep it or not. So what I'm saying is if I do rebuild it, I will probably end up keeping it for a good couple years. The main question is, what power can I aim for with stock internals that's going to be reliable? With the mods I have I can easily achieve 320+ But is that real smart?

I think its been said on this forum many times that a std rebuild engine is not always as reliable as a std factory built engine, and there are lots of people running 280-350rwkw on std engines, for how long is down to tune and maintenance and how you treat it

Went and talked to my mechanic today, who's a good friend of the family. The damage done to the block is somewhat repairable but he has also given me the advice many others on here have, and that's to just drop another rb25 in. His already found me an engine for $600 and it's in really good condition, don't ask me how he pulled that one off, because I thought they go for around $1200. His advised me that if I'm going to keep the car, to get a set of forged pistons and rods, head gasket. But also as many of you said, if I'm going to sell, drop the engine in, a tune and sell her off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, you're wrong, and you've always been wrong about this. The Nismo has 2 sets of openings. One is a real 2-way, and the other is a 1-way. There is no 1.5-way possible with the ramps that they offer. A real 1.5-way does exist. That Cusco stuff I posted is a prime example. If the forward drive ramps are, say 55°, and the overrun ramps are, say, 30°, then you will get about half as much LSD effect on overrun than you do on drive. It is real, it realy works. OK, you're slightly right. The Nismo has 55° and 45° ramps on the 2-way, so it does offer less LSD effect on overrun. But, I think that just means that they've (probably) sensibly established that you do not want actually equal LSD effect on overrun. You just want "quite a lot, but not quite as much as the drive LSD effect".
    • Just wanted to unearth this and post my baby with the new front ❤️😝 Took her to my wedding rehearsal today. Next up is getting wide skirts (after wedding)
    • Yea, that is what I was getting at in my ramblings too. The nismo one actually is a 1.5 way and a 1 way. They don't do a *2* way because a true *2* way would have equal ramp angles. Or is that a true 1.5 way? Realistically I think a "1.5 way" does not actually exist. A diff can either lock in two directions or one. It also doesn't help that a LOT of people in Australia speak about 1.5 way diffs are referring to their 1 way diff.
    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
×
×
  • Create New...