Jump to content
SAU Community

Ductile Sleeving Rb Engine Blocks

33GTRV

By 33GTRV,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

33GTRV Mentor

33GTRV

Posted
Posted

As the title suggests, after destroying 2 cylinders and the deck in an n1 block, I'm looking at a sleeve and grout job on the next engine. I'm chasing REAL WORLD FACTS about the pros and cons. I've searched the subject and it's very inconclusive. I don't need to hear about joe blow making 1000 on a stock block because I don't give a frack, I'm looking for torque and peak torque and lots of timing mean biiiig cylinder pressures.

Thanks in advance, and happy new year

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436965-ductile-sleeving-rb-engine-blocks/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Actually if you Google there is a lot of reading on sleeving RBs with generic sleeves or OS Giken or Apexi . Grout filling of RB30s in is common and there are a coupe of threads on doing it in RB26s as well so I guess you just need to price some sleeves, the machining and decide whether its a better road than a new N1 block. There is a variety of cylinder wall coatings you can do as well so there is plenty of choice. If you want real world experience check out Rips big power engines. I don't think he's into sleeving but he certainly uses grout.

But as above if you are destroying engines I would think assembly and tuning play a bigger part. At what KW and revs are your engines breaking?

33GTRV Mentor

33GTRV

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Central qld. People have conflicting information on the job, and I can tell you that an n1 block isn't going to do it, because I'm not doing it again. I'm not keen on forking 10k on a rrr block to be a gunie pig either. As for properly tuned and maintained, don't get much better than a new one. And I still killed it. I know of some companies that have done it, but they aren't too keen on telling the secrets, and that's understandable.

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

^^ even a brand new block and Internals can be destroyed by poor tuning/assembly/maintenance

I understand that you dont want to be forking out for a new block etc but there must of been other issues that killed your engine so quickly

Why did it let go?

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

From what I have seen the strongest factory block out there is the RD28 block. Which is due to all the extra ribbing it has cast into it. The factory bores are not really that much thicker/stronger like alot of people have said in the past. Ultimate budget setup would be RD block with some darton sleeves in it and grout filled to within an inch or two from the top to allow coolant around the top of the bores and access to head without too much stuffing around. That's without actually going to a full billet alloy block which is getting into serious money territory.

That's a good starting point to hold atleast 1500+ HP.

Just what sort of power/torque are you talking about here roughly?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By PranK · Posted

      We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...