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Ductile Sleeving Rb Engine Blocks

33GTRV

By 33GTRV,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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33GTRV Mentor

33GTRV

Posted
Posted

As the title suggests, after destroying 2 cylinders and the deck in an n1 block, I'm looking at a sleeve and grout job on the next engine. I'm chasing REAL WORLD FACTS about the pros and cons. I've searched the subject and it's very inconclusive. I don't need to hear about joe blow making 1000 on a stock block because I don't give a frack, I'm looking for torque and peak torque and lots of timing mean biiiig cylinder pressures.

Thanks in advance, and happy new year

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KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
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Actually if you Google there is a lot of reading on sleeving RBs with generic sleeves or OS Giken or Apexi . Grout filling of RB30s in is common and there are a coupe of threads on doing it in RB26s as well so I guess you just need to price some sleeves, the machining and decide whether its a better road than a new N1 block. There is a variety of cylinder wall coatings you can do as well so there is plenty of choice. If you want real world experience check out Rips big power engines. I don't think he's into sleeving but he certainly uses grout.

But as above if you are destroying engines I would think assembly and tuning play a bigger part. At what KW and revs are your engines breaking?

33GTRV Mentor

33GTRV

Posted
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Posted

Central qld. People have conflicting information on the job, and I can tell you that an n1 block isn't going to do it, because I'm not doing it again. I'm not keen on forking 10k on a rrr block to be a gunie pig either. As for properly tuned and maintained, don't get much better than a new one. And I still killed it. I know of some companies that have done it, but they aren't too keen on telling the secrets, and that's understandable.

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

^^ even a brand new block and Internals can be destroyed by poor tuning/assembly/maintenance

I understand that you dont want to be forking out for a new block etc but there must of been other issues that killed your engine so quickly

Why did it let go?

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

From what I have seen the strongest factory block out there is the RD28 block. Which is due to all the extra ribbing it has cast into it. The factory bores are not really that much thicker/stronger like alot of people have said in the past. Ultimate budget setup would be RD block with some darton sleeves in it and grout filled to within an inch or two from the top to allow coolant around the top of the bores and access to head without too much stuffing around. That's without actually going to a full billet alloy block which is getting into serious money territory.

That's a good starting point to hold atleast 1500+ HP.

Just what sort of power/torque are you talking about here roughly?

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