Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone seen this on an rb before?

Mine has randomly let go between cylinders 3-4, oil is clean and pressure is spot on, not running hot at all, coolant is clean.

It just started running All of a sudden really rough, and after a comp test, cyl 3 and 4 have nothing, sooty plugs and that's it, every thing else seems fine.

Sounds like the seal between 3 and 4 is compromised, there will be no water or oil mixing issues, simply no compression if dead on right between the cylinders.

Good way to check is pull a spark plug out of one of the 2 failed cylinders, leave the other one in the other failed cylinder, turn over the engine by hand, when the cylinder that failed with the sparkplug fitted is in the compression stroke you will hear a hissing into the cylinder without the spark plug.

Same will happen if you swap the sparkplugs the other way around, whichever cylinder is going into compression with the spark plug fitted will leak out into the failed cylinder next to it without the spark plug.

Edited by GTRPSI

Only runs up to 8psi, standard r33 tune. Standard timing, it is an rb30/25 running the stock 370cc injectors and ecu, afr's are spot on at 14.7 @ cruise and up to 11.7 @ full boost,

Components look flat under a straight edge but may have to look closer with feeler gauges, maybe get some bits milled/surfaced.

Might be an excuse to build a full angry engine!

Edited by nicksamaniac

Sure am, even had it on the Dyno to check it! The afm goes over 5v at around 11psi boost, it's at 4.89v at 8psi, so that's as hard as I can run it.

I have a set of sard 700cc injectors but am waiting/saving for a power fc.

People say it can't be done but if you think about it it's the same as winding up boost on a stock 25.

Its only 500cc or 500ml capacity Extra.

Lol that's the craziest thing I've heard. just Because it runs Ok at 8psi on the dyno doesn't mean that in the real world it might not boost spike and max your afm out and cause detonation. Which is exactly what's happened.

500cc more is a biy more then winding the boost up. The comp ratio has changed. The airflow characteristics have changed all throughout the load and rev range. It's never going to work safely on a stock 33 ecu. Do yourself a favor and get the head checked. Gasket replaced and put a tunable ecu in it

Boost spike? With a 4 psi spring in a 50mm gate, bleeding off to get a MAX of 8 psi, with the boost controller at full bleed.

Funny how I've been driving on this setup for 22000km.

I actually have an answer now, head is not flat, out of spec over the length, explains why it went between 3-4.

Lol that's the craziest thing I've heard. just Because it runs Ok at 8psi on the dyno doesn't mean that in the real world it might not boost spike and max your afm out and cause detonation. Which is exactly what's happened.

500cc more is a biy more then winding the boost up. The comp ratio has changed. The airflow characteristics have changed all throughout the load and rev range. It's never going to work safely on a stock 33 ecu. Do yourself a favor and get the head checked. Gasket replaced and put a tunable ecu in it

Actually, it's not all as silly as it sounds. The load is measured by the AFM, so the fuelling will be correct at pretty much all points, and where it is wrong, it will be richer than the original fuelling in the 25, so safer (if more wrong!). The timing will probably stil be OK, as the RB25/30 doesn't usually end up with more compression.

I'm not saying it's a great idea, but the ECU at least is able to do it. If it was an olde schoole MAP sensored ECU, then you'd have good reason to call foul.

^ +1. The capacity increase VS the amount of boost these engines can put up with COULD allow it to run safely. The fact that the afr's have been checked should confirm the state of tune is sufficient to support the load/demand of the setup.

A bit unlucky it let go. Good on ya for chucking it together and having a go.

To many people spend too long thinking about stuff and not enough time doing it and seeing what happens.

  • Like 1

Thanks for the positive reply, most forums only dish out negative stuff and false tech info.

At least I'm doing my own r&d (so to speak) if it doesn't work, at least it's only made/built from spare/leftover parts around the shed and hasn't cost $thousands in the first place.

Probably was always out of spec, it was just removed from a stock n/a rb25 (r32/cefiro) and bolted straight onto an untouched r31 rb30 bottom end. Using a cheap fiber head gasket.

Probably was a good thing I had a nasty gasket as aposed to a mls-r, it probably would of done head/block damage in the long run instead of chewing out the gasket.

I'll get it milled, fit some better valve springs (bin the non turbo ones)

and screw it down with a good gasket.

Edited by nicksamaniac

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...