Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Looking to get an understanding of High Power Ignitors and CDI Setups.

Recently had another R32 GTR Ignitor fail and luckily had a 2nd hand spare I'd collected over time.

So I checked with Nissan, RHD and Kudos re prices. They range from the cheapest for OEM $550 upto around $800+.

I was made aware that Haltech make a High Power Ignitor to replace Tranistor ignitors and/or for performance vehicles (HP6 - $450 plus the cost of initial wiring in).

Also stumbled across some chatter on here about people using CDI systems (LS1). Whilst trying to find answers using search.

So really just trying to get some further info from those who know as info is scarce

I run a Haltech Platinum Sports 2000 so a HP6 looks attractive cost wise and compatibility with my ECU.

Unfortunately the Haltech site info doesn't explain http://store.haltech.com/default/ignition-modules-coils/hpi6-high-power-ignitor-6-channel-inc-plugs-and-pins.html

Is it plain and simple ? Ie. Greater and better timed spark (Amplified spark), cheaper cost ? or is the other tangible benefits ?

Is CDI the same or better than the HPI ?

Cheers

Richard

Edited by Sinista32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437191-high-power-ignitors-cdi-benefits/
Share on other sites

The ignitor is only a switching device that allows the individual coils to fire. Later model stuff has the ignitor manufactured integral with the individual coils.

Ignitor failure can be caused by overheating - there is a reason they are mounted to that steel plate from the factory. Old trick to ensure good heat transfer is to have a really thin sliver of wheel bearing grease between the ignitor and the mount. Just enough to bridge the gap, and that type of grease won't melt and go everywhere.

The LS coil packs are bigger than OEM and can accumulate/discharge a bigger spark than OEM in the same time. Arguably not as tidy looking as OEM when installed, which may make a difference for those looking for stock looks. Somewhere in the mix here I think the HKS spark amplifier kits might be an alternative. The Haltech gear sounds similar to the HKS stuff.

CDI is about the biggest/baddest setup available, barring a magneto as per old school V8s. Uses a separate control box, and generally needs the main loom shielded from the radio interference generated. It's priced accordingly and is not widely used but it is the best if you are chasing big reliable hp and need a walloping spark. Substandard results can happen if setup/installed by someone not fully conversant with what is required.

The info is out there about CDI, just surf a bit longer and read wider til you get the level of understanding needed.

Thank you. Appreciated.

In my case (application) CDI appears to be overkill. Will likely go the Haltech HP6 spark amplifier for improvement, cost and the all important asthetics.

It appears a smallish unit that can be mounted either where the old ignitor is or under dash (hidden). 15amp.

With my old 32GTS-t I had external bosch coils installed and although neat still stuck out like dogs balls along the back firewall.

Cheers.

Richard

You could try a 300ZX igniter. Ran one on mine for a while but you need to find someone who knows how to switch the loom wires to accommodate the ZX unit, it's a small change and I'm pretty sure Glen knows how to do it. Fraction of the cost of the OEM GTR unit. That said, it doesn't seem to be very popular and I've only seen one other car - local heavily modified R33 GTR - that runs it so maybe there are issues I didn't experience.

Cheers

Thanks Scoobs - think I'm using one I got from you after I returned your new one :thumbsup:

It's running perfect but it may only be a matter of time.

At one stage between rebuilds I'm sure Ed put the ZX unit on my GTR and stripped the wires to put on the right pins.

With the 2nd rebuild I put a new harness in and went back to the OEM ignitor.

There is a aftermarket ignitor which fixed my ignition issues and also Joeys.

http://www.moristech.com.au/Moristech%20Price%20List%201st%20August%202010.pdf

6 channel, replaces the standard one. Mine lives tucked up in the footwell.

I have a 500R CDI in my car. It's taken me ages to figure out how to get the most out if it.

The spark is much hotter (more volts) but shorter. Multi-spark only occurs at low rpm.

Because if the hotter spark, it eats regular old copper plugs so you must go iridium or platinum.

Also, my unit can only do wasted spark. On those systems stay away from dual coils. Tried two sets in mine with same spark breakdown issue on high boost when hot (eg trackdays).

Went single GM HEI coils with CDI and spark issues sorted.

I'm tempted to use non ignitor coil overs but I'm sceptical as to whether they can produce enough spark under high comp/boost. The advantage is they're obviously a lot neater if you can get them under the standard cover.

There is a aftermarket ignitor which fixed my ignition issues and also Joeys.

http://www.moristech.com.au/Moristech%20Price%20List%201st%20August%202010.pdf

6 channel, replaces the standard one. Mine lives tucked up in the footwell.

Yep, the moristec is an awesome bit of kit

Thanks Scoobs - think I'm using one I got from you after I returned your new one :thumbsup:

It's running perfect but it may only be a matter of time.

At one stage between rebuilds I'm sure Ed put the ZX unit on my GTR and stripped the wires to put on the right pins.

With the 2nd rebuild I put a new harness in and went back to the OEM ignitor.

I've had a s2 Z32 ignitor on my 32R for 2.5 years with zero issues, can be had new very cheap.

You don't actually need to strip the wires, you can just unpin the plugs and redo to suit the new ignitor... so no worries about introducing problems with new joins etc.

I've just re-done this recently to suit one of the beefed up Do-Luck ignition harnesses :)

I had spark issues on my last tune at only 325kws but it was possibly due to an undiagnosed issue somewhere else....

Are you just running standard kit Paul?

New coil harness, splitfires and a Morris tech ignitor box. Plug gap is 0.8 mm.

I had a pretty HKS hold box but ended up turfing that and went down my current route.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...