Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok this is a flight of fancy more than anything else but does anyone know of a successful dual clutch gearbox transplant into a Skyline? It would be a major undertaking with a lot of custom work (read: cost prohibitive) but would be very interesting to see nonetheless.

I had a quick look at eBay and you can get some second hand Porsche PDK units from around $5k in the US. Used DSG boxes from VW seem to start at around $3k - not that those would take 300rwkw without some serious work.

But yeah 200ms shift times would be sweet :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437774-dual-clutch-gearbox-into-a-skyline/
Share on other sites

This will eventually have to get to the aftermarket (ie, some sort of semi-universal programmable control system for 2nd hand DSGs). But I don't think it is here yet.

But, there are very very few DSG type gearboxen that you would consider taking on board after someone else has used it. There is no way on God's green earth that I would ever own a VAG DSG out of warranty (in fact, I wouldn't buy any VW or Audi type vehicle at all, let alone a DSG one). Most other manufacturers dual clutchers have shocking histories of random and expensive failures. The only ones that would be desirable, from the lack of sudden death viewpoint, would probably stay expensive.

It would be good to see, but I think it would be hard to get an adapter or custom bellhousing made to bolt to the RB block. I'm not sure how the gearbox splits the input to the 2 shafts, so might be a bit busy in the front of the gearbox. I'm sure its doable, but you might have trouble with boxes that are rear mounted and get drive from the engine through a prop shaft.

WIthout having ever seen one out of a car, sitting there available to have a bit of a look at, its hard to say. Would probably end up costing a bit if you were the first to try it, but if an adapter or modification to an existing box was mass produced it might bring the price down to something which would make people think twice

As above, I would be a bit sketchy about using a VW dual clutch. My girlfriends VW Polo is on its second DSG after a re-call and it shudders in 2nd on a slow takeoff which I think was half the reason they were recalled (not sure if it was the cause of that girl whose dsg failed on a motorway and was killed, but the shudder is a common problem)

Maybe the Nissan GT-R box would be good but it wouldnt be cheap and has the prop shaft input.

Edited by 89CAL

It would be good to see, but I think it would be hard to get an adapter or custom bellhousing made to bolt to the RB block. I'm not sure how the gearbox splits the input to the 2 shafts, so might be a bit busy in the front of the gearbox. I'm sure its doable, but you might have trouble with boxes that are rear mounted and get drive from the engine through a prop shaft.

WIthout having ever seen one out of a car, sitting there available to have a bit of a look at, its hard to say. Would probably end up costing a bit if you were the first to try it, but if an adapter or modification to an existing box was mass produced it might bring the price down to something which would make people think twice

As above, I would be a bit sketchy about using a VW dual clutch. My girlfriends VW Polo is on its second DSG after a re-call and it shudders in 2nd on a slow takeoff which I think was half the reason they were recalled (not sure if it was the cause of that girl whose dsg failed on a motorway and was killed, but the shudder is a common problem)

Maybe the Nissan GT-R box would be good but it wouldnt be cheap and has the prop shaft input.

I remember watching a doco on the GTR, and they said stress test every DSG box that they fit on a car on a special machine to make sure it works perfectly, on top of the strangest handbuild production methods. They stated they are the only manufacture in the world to do so. The only ones I have heard of breaking are the early model ones that were incorrectly "launch" controlled, and new ones that have to put up with over 1000hp of abusive driving. Aside from that, I have never heard of one ever breaking on a unmodified car.

Though how would you even get it to work with the RB? The design is completely different from every perceptive.

Thanks for your input everyone. It pretty much confirms what I thought - would be neat but way to exxy to be feasible at the moment.

I think there's some hope though, if you look at the dual clutch gearbox supplier list on Wikipedia there's heaps in production. No doubt in a few years there will be more to choose from. There's something in the idea of mating a 15-20 year old RB to the latest in gearbox tech :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...