Jump to content
SAU Community

Clubman>GTR???


Recommended Posts

ooh yeah, just looked @ Elfin site. Cool stuff there! I know it's dear, but the MS8 looks wicked. Just imagine it with an RB26, 4WD, 6 speed Getrag, 6 Piston AP's...... there I go again, getting carried away! It's a disease!......... hey, jlnewton, can I buy your car once you finish it?

you can buy mine now if you want it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Great thing about the 1600 is the low weight and a tin roof for daily driver. Technologically there is little difference to the clubby, and I would happily have both.

Don't get me wrong, there will be a lot of work to bring either up to speed, but I have found few cars more reliable and driveable than a well done 1600.

in the end i think a good clubby would destroy it though, and individuality is all important, hence my effort to make a quick GTS25t on track.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can buy mine now if you want it.

No thanks. My old 32 did 59s on Federal street tyres. I don't think anything slower would excite me. Hence I'm looking at something a little lighter and easier on the pocket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clubman v GTR? the clubman will kill a GTR.....

eg Eastern Creek, a quick GTR will be around 1.45, clubmans about 1.41.....and EC is a high speed track, it gets even uglier on a tight track....eg a clubman has done 1.03 at Wakefield

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have no idea what they're worth (though I'm guessing $$$$) but in a bike mag I read about a clubman-style thing, based on a Caterham Seven IIRC, that you could option all the way up to twin bike motors (choice of Hayabusa, Blackbird or ZX12R) and 4WD. 0-100kmh in 2.8 sec, and would no doubt lap any circuit on the planet faster than just about anything once setup right. If you're interested I can dig up the article and scan it, might take a while though, I have quite a few bike magazines :D Bolt a turbo to each of those motors, run low boost to keep it reliable(ish), and you'd have a 700hp, 500kg racer ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remember the Catheram took the lap record at Nurburgring from either Porsche Turbo or GTR and they were all excited. Good stuf but they are comparing a toy with a car with full comforts so I wasn't that impressed. Still a good drive though. Almost as good ast pete (fats) in the "little renault"

Yeah one of those would be wicked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pete's drive was good until he backed it into a wall at the ring! lol!

I was contemplating a clubman at one stage. The biggest worry was not parts which may need to be fabricated. The instructions given to you may not list the parts which need fabrication because there are a variety of engines which you could fit in there. But most common engine is the 4AGE 16V. I was talking to the guy who distrubutes Westfield kits for NSW and he said at the time the 4AGE 20V was not legal because of emissions testing not conducted on the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks as though the South African brand may have got it legalised.

Didn't the wall bit on my video, was there another lap not freely distributed? Was carsick tho from the camera being sideways :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just got this from the PRB Site, been getting some good sydney stories from Roy now he is down here.

Mmmmm Focus engine, but the 20V is nice too. This has got my interest for a new buildup since I am selling a house in Melb soon and want to tinker in Bris when I get there. Would be a great project with the girly involved.

Now available with 79/00 emissions compliant Toyota 4AGE-20 valve or Ford Focus engines.

[/color]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been looking around at a few, but the quality of the build varies greatly. Some people seem to think "zip ties" make great structural braces!

A consistent difference with a lot of these kits seems to be the availability of independent rear suspension as an option. My belief that for pure circuit work, a live rear axle will be just as good. Anyone care to disagree?

As an aside, I recall reading about a "Radical" in a Euro magazine a while back. These are along the same lines as a clubman, but full bodied. GSX-R turbo & NA powered I think, and HEAPS quicker than Porsche GT3 RS, Lambo etc... But WAY too expensive for what it is. An Ariel Atom looked cool to, powered by the latest Civic Type R engine.

skylinegeoff, I kinda agree with your thought that a clubman is sort of "cheating" when it comes to comparing with "real cars", by not dragging around all the heft road cars have to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remember the Catheram took the lap record at Nurburgring from either Porsche Turbo or GTR and they were all excited. Good stuf but they are comparing a toy with a car with full comforts so I wasn't that impressed. Still a good drive though. Almost as good ast pete (fats) in the "little renault"

 

Yeah one of those would be wicked.

Caterham's are absolute track weapons -- 0-100 in 3.4 seconds:

http://www.caterham.co.uk/showroom/sevens/.../superlight.htm

But as you said, that's basically all they are good for: would be horrible to try and use one as a dialy driver.

If you flushed with cash I would probably choose a Lotus Elise: its still hard core, but at least it has a roof! Car and Driver did a track car roundup this month too:

http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?se...article_id=8202

LW.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good price, but they are fiercly unreliable at that power level. There is a massive amount done to it though so it would be nice just to have in the garage.

Would be worth it except for the hairdresser image. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most of you would have looked @ that J-Spec Celica, seems a lot of gear for the money, even if it needs a rebuild (that I can do myself if I get excited).

Do you think that's a reasonable car to think about? Are they really designed for that power level? Would I be able to drive it to the track legally?

I've been lookin and thinking, but would appreciate your thoughts.

Or wait for a good Clubman?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My thoughts are its a heavily modified car, so you could spend forever trying to work out what parts might be causing problems, particularly since you didn't make the modifications yourself and I doubt they are documented.

The owner seems to have gone all out... how much of the stuff added actually improves upon the base car you would never know without stripping it all off and trying piece by piece.

As for the legalities, I doubt it could be made road legal even if you were allowed to import it without a CAMS license.

Have you thought of an Evo or WRX race car? A number of these have come up recently and they are quite cheap: you would need a CAMS license to bring them in though and they aren't road registerable. :rofl:

Edit: you could always buy a road legal Evo/WRX/whatever shell and switch all the parts from the JP car.

LW.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most of you would have looked @ that J-Spec Celica, seems a lot of gear for the money, even if it needs a rebuild (that I can do myself if I get excited).

Do you think that's a reasonable car to think about? Are they really designed for that power level? Would I be able to drive it to the track legally?

I've been lookin and thinking, but would appreciate your thoughts.

Or wait for a good Clubman?

I reckon an unknown modified jp celica with a blown motor is among the worst you could buy.

First decide what you want a car for.

If its club/open track days, then maybe buy a stock(ish) jp import.

If you want a quick race car buy something already here and proven like an improved production car - second hand race cars are great value and all the expensive and hard work is already done. Cars like the celica are not eligible for *any* type of racing in australia

If you want a long list of mods to impress your friends buy the celica.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wow mate that's huge, congrats. Glad you found better people to deal with and all seems like it's going in the right direction.
    • The best setting for street is what gives the best tyres wear for your driving style Different tyres like different camber You want the whole surface of the tread to wear flat, if the inside of the tyre is wearing more than the outside reduce camber settings For toe, have the minimum amount to give the handling you want Caster, from my experience if you can adjust it, is as much as you can get without clearance issues And while -2.5° of camber on the front might work well with good tyres for "spirited" cornering, it may be too much for a street car Lots of front camber will effect braking Just like to much rear camber will effect rear traction (rwd), and braking  When I set my Bogan Cruise Ship (VX SS) up for drags I tested how much tyre width I actually had in the rear by doing a hard launch (skid), it originally had -1.5° in the rear, and you could see that the tyre wasn't putting down alot of the tread, I maxed out the settings to get as little camber as I could with the OEM adjustment and some camber bushings and got it down to just under -0.5° with 0 toe, that gave me a fair bit more "rubber on the road" and helped it hook up for my 60' and my 0-100kph And with -1.5° in the front the big old boat handles fine on the street and my tyre wear is nice and even on both front and rear tyres (currently Hankook RS4's) As for semi slicks at the track, again, it depends on alot more IRT the suspension, the track and lots of other things, so, I'll leave that up to people who have more experience, especially with a AWD In saying this, street settings are pretty easy, just look at the tyre wear Meh, Necro thread, it's late at night, and I has been drinking beer
    • Thought I'd give an update. There needs to be scarce details in some areas due to ongoing discussions. Here's the journey of trying to make the booked registration appointment (again). Sent a complaint to Car Inspect outlining the concerns and made some demands. Went to a service center in Geelong, got assaulted with bullshit items on the RWC, as you know. Tried to quote $2.5k AND wanted a structural report Only seemed to be one place around Geelong that does them, they demand $495 just to end up telling me it's f**ked, at least $11k to fix and tried to sell me his own Skyline in the process (bro, wtf?) Started stressing about what I'm supposed to do with this possible pile of steel. Awaiting that, I was sent an angel friend who works in Melbourne and knows real mechanics and body shops.  They laughed at the reported quotes (don't get work done in Geelong) Car underwent some front surgery and brought back better They then sent it to the mechanics for RWC Registration appointment is two days away at this point. Mechanics pointed out two issues: driver's seat and shocks - that's it. He offered couple options and I chose coilovers. Frantically I scoured the jungle realm that is Facebook Marketplace (again). Found what looks to be a decent Series 1 seat actually - $100 Guy is friendly, offers to bring the seat with a colleague who's heading to Geelong (thanks man, that was cool) Seat arrived, looks good. Throw it in my car and drive to Melbourne and drop it to mechanic T-1 day, mechanic reckons job will be done for the fronts only, gets it done by 4PM Mechanic heads to get the coil-overs that night as a favour to help me make the appointment Get driven to Melbourne, drove the car back - RWC Unlocked! ✅ VicRoads tomorrow, the goal is close now. 🙂
    • Gtr are still available through the heritage program but don’t have the wiring 
×
×
  • Create New...