Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am currently parting out a track r32 sedan. All prices a little bit negotiable, pickup from Toowoomba, potentially deliver to Gold Coast or Brisbane and I don't mind posting. Parts I have left are as follows;

  • RB25 Gear box (r33) great condition with short shifter - $1000
  • OS Giken twin plate clutch, recently rebuild never slipped, fantastic clutch - $500
  • S13 Tein HD Coilovers (10/12's) VGC no leaks - $1000
  • R32 sedan Racing Logic Coilover GC - $850
  • Genuine Garret 3076R .69 rear, 4" inlet, welded alloy 90 on comp. housing, have receipts for $1000 rebuild and flow, VGC, extremely responsive on a 25, made 485hp at tyres also, incl. dump pipe with V Band, incl. lines
  • Split Pulse 6 boost turbo manifold, Suit Rb25/20 dual gate ports VGC only on car for 3 track days - $950
  • Plazmaman inlet manifold rb25 (includes lower part of manifold and throttle body) VGC- $900
  • Tomei 1.2mm rb25 MLS Head gasket (best head gasket made IMO) unused still in plastic - $360 (rrp $480)
  • 2 x RB30 bottom ends including sump (great for 25/30 build) - $150 each
  • Custom made alloy radiator suit most Nissan's, I had it in an R32 really thick worked great - $250
  • average condition black front mount - $80
  • 3" turbo back exhaust twin 3" tip no mufflers or cat's - $250
  • GK Tech quick release with 20mm hub and GK tech deep dish steering wheel - $250
  • Cusco front upper camber arms 2 degrees neg - $150
  • Full set of adjustable arms front and rear R32 - $650
  • R200 with Nizmo 2 way centre PC - $750
  • 1 x Bride Brix drivers seat on rails- $250
  • R33 modified cross member - rack pushed forward, braced and re drilled for motor to be pushed back - $100
  • S14 aftermarket (long/strengthened) tie rod ends - $160
  • Engineered to Slide spacers for rack (more luck) - $60
  • Heaps of skid rims and tyres all 5 stud approx. 10 rims - 15 tyres - $220
  • R200 LSD - $150
  • R180 welded centre - $150
  • R 32 Shell - has rear cradle in with alloy subframe bushes, dash in tact with no cracks, couple of gauges, sheet metal rear, no rear seats etc. cool colour shitty paint, no crash history - $400
  • r32 sedan Cusco half cage bolt in, incl. all bolts and plates necessary for installation - $500
  • Whiteline front swaybar and bushes for r32, probably the best modification I made to the car IMO - $180
  • GTR rear sway bar and bushes - $150
  • Rota Gr6 rims with 9.5 +25 fronts and 10.5 +15's rear, 75% front's 50% rears, minor marks and scratches on all rims - $600
  • 2 x 044 bosch fuel pumps, 5L surge tank, 2 x Proflow reusable fuel filters and relevant fittings - $450
  • Greddy catch can and lines - $80
  • Big Drift Air filter 4" - $40
  • R32 fronted S13, big pumped guards a couple of adjustable arms, pillar gauges, hydro handbrake, shortened lower rear control arms, cool blue paint - $1000

Call for or text with queries Sean - 0438 454 756

post-120095-0-68600600-1390102699_thumb.jpg

post-120095-0-06744400-1390102707_thumb.jpg

post-120095-0-37932000-1390102714_thumb.jpg

post-120095-0-46654100-1390102720_thumb.jpg

post-120095-0-65651600-1390102723_thumb.jpg

post-120095-0-07406200-1390102732_thumb.jpg

post-120095-0-62749800-1390102743_thumb.jpg

post-120095-0-92951500-1390102751_thumb.jpg

post-120095-0-11099300-1390102759_thumb.jpg

post-120095-0-66249300-1390102771_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 months later...

  • 2 x 044 bosch fuel pumps, 5L surge tank, 2 x Proflow reusable fuel filters and relevant fittings - $450

still for sale?

What plazamaman is it?

  • 2 x 044 bosch fuel pumps, 5L surge tank, 2 x Proflow reusable fuel filters and relevant fittings - $450
  • still for sale?
  • What plazamaman is it?

Fuel system is still for sale.

Not sure what you mean by what plazmaman is it? It is an rb25det plazmaman inlet manifold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...