Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi might forum,

I have a really dumb question but just can't get straight on my own:

Does 3"x2 - 3.5" mean

1, two 70mm diameter pipes joints to one 80mm diameter pipe, or

2, two 76.2mm diameter pipes joints to one 88.9mm diameter pipe

I see exhaust diameters are often quoted in rounded millimeters, which is quite confusing to me.

Any commends welcome!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438122-dumb-question-exhaust-size/
Share on other sites

Exhaust pipe is sized according the rules for "tube" not pipe. As such, tubes are always the outer diameter. 3.5" is 3.5" OD, and the ID is whatever that number is take 2 lots of wall thickness (which can vary but in exhaust pipe is usually not much more than 1mm).

So your ID on your 3.5" pipe is actually more like 86mm.

From my calculation, the right size should be 2x70mm (most sized jdm downpipe) intro 1x 100mm ( 4 inch) for ZERO RESTRICTION.

However, most of them are 2x70mm into 1x80mm and some are 90mm.. which cause a restriction.

Then you could have a 90mm exit but if your exhaust or cat or resonator is only 3inch ( 76 to 80mm) it doesnt matter if its a 90mm (3.5 inch) because you still have a bottleneck at 80mm.

Once you have sorted this out... you should know that almost ALL dump pipe are 70mm or less ( hks are 60mm and R34 are about 56-58 i believe and then the r32s are about 50mm)...

As much as I would like to upgrade my exhaust, I havent found any informations on the internet about this problematic and don't want to be a '' piggy tester'' as I don't have any friend who work at exhaust shop who can fab me a 3.5 or 4inch exhaust for dirt cheap and I dont think my tuner will allow me to test-run his dyno for free for the sake of argument.

So I dont think your question is dump at all.

Yep 3" (76.2mm) here and 80mm in Japan . Saddedst thing is we used to have 2 3/4" (70mm) here as well but almost non existent now .Occasionally some Jap exhaust bits are in this size because they know in some instances a little higher gas speed works better than with 80mm .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...