What Camber And Caster Do You Run On Your Skyline?

[IMPORTS ONLY]

my reason for asking this is because my R34 pulls to the left no matter how i set up my caster and im interested to see what caster as well as camber everyone else is running

[Sinista32]

Whats your front Toe in/out (Left and Right) ?

Post your set-up and it may then become obvious to others to point you in the right direction

Edited February 6, 2014 by Sinista32

[IMPORTS ONLY]

ive tried adjusting the castor in serval ways and this set is what pulls least left

[Sinista32]

Put More caster on the left than the right

Maybe Left 5 and right 4

Toe +1.5 on front both sides

Edit: Have you had any front end damage ?

Edited February 6, 2014 by Sinista32

[IMPORTS ONLY]

tried that and it made it pull even more left and made my steering wheel more off centre

extending the length of the tension rod i.e. making it longer would increase the caster positively right?

i even made the left maxed out as long as it would safely go and made the right side as short as it would go and it was still worse then what is posted in that pic thats why im so confused ive been trying different caster adjustments for days

[Sinista32]

what can accentuate when driving is that the roads are built with camber dropping off to thee side of the road. So most cars will drift to the edge

Unless the alignment is set to combat this. When you test drive use different roads. As some roads are just worse than others.

Im no expert. so for $85 the wheel alignment place should sort it .

could it be that it's bent up front ?

Edited February 6, 2014 by Sinista32

[IMPORTS ONLY]

i have SRI tension rods not sure they can get to 5', and if so it would make my wheels rub on the inner plastics

on that pic my left was 4 threads out = 2'46 and the right was on 7 threads = 3'34, they can only get to like 8/9 threads before i think its not safe so that gives you an idea of my room to play with

[IMPORTS ONLY]

what can accentuate when driving is that the roads are built with camber dropping off to thee side of the road. So most cars will drift to the edge

Unless the alignment is set to combat this. When you test drive use different roads. As some roads are just worse than others.

and yep just found this out recently too, but compared to driving numerous other cars that i can let go of the wheel for whole straights pretty much and i cant let go of mine long enough to plug my phone into the aux

[Sinista32]

yeah - that's me done

not bent up front anywhere?

Maybe take it to a pro

might need some after market stuff

[KiwiRS4T]

I run 6 deg left and 5.75 right Castor. I have Cusco arms. You have a lot of negative camber c/w a small castor angle which would make the car very twitchy anyway. Your rear camber is getting up there too - is it set for slicks or because you can't fit your wheels in your guards? Also try setting the toe in to zero. If your rear toe in is still as far out as your details suggest (it doesn't show any corrected figures) then that won't help keeping you going straight either. If it is still pulling hard left you or someone is likely to have whacked a kerb or something and if you can't see any obvious damage you may consider getting it put on a chassis alignment rig at a panelbeaters.

[IMPORTS ONLY]

my wheel shop wont touch my adjustable arms because of the effort to take them half out to adjust them, so they have only been able to give me advice on where my castor should be. and for $65 a hit it will get pretty expensive to take it in after every adjustment.

i originally snapped the stock castor arm then bought a replacement and it pulled to the left so i got the adjustable ones and still pretty much the same amount of little pull to the left.

nothing looks bent but there could be something sneaky but wouldn't it show in the wheel alignment sheet

[Sinista32]

If the wheel alignment is dialled in correctly then only driving it will tell you there is something wrong which it has. Pointing to damage

So your alignment needs to compensate for this or you'll need to resolve any damage

[KiwiRS4T]

my wheel shop wont touch my adjustable arms because of the effort to take them half out to adjust them, so they have only been able to give me advice on where my castor should be. and for $65 a hit it will get pretty expensive to take it in after every adjustment.

I don't know how your castor arms work but I don't have to remove mine to adjust them.

If you read my post sentence by sentence you will see that in my opinion (you are entitled to yours) there is a lot wrong with your alignment. Once it is right then if your car still pulls left you have damage somewhere.

[IMPORTS ONLY]

i have to take out the two bolts that connect it to the knuckle and twist it from there (pretty sure thats how im meant to do it anyway haha)

i agree there is a lot wrong with my alignment thats, thats why i want to see how it should be set up and then hopefully it doesnt pull left and i dont have any chassis damage ect,

tomorrow ill extend my tension rods to get a higher castor and aim for around 5.5 on the left and 6 on the right

i dont know hoe to adjust the toe so ill have to wait till i go to the shop for that, where should it be set? and ill adjust the camber to around -1/0?

Edited February 6, 2014 by IMPORTS ONLY

[GTSBoy]

i have to take out the two bolts that connect it to the knuckle and twist it from there (pretty sure thats how im meant to do it anyway haha)

Um....no. You release both the plated nuts (at either end of the red section) and then you can turn the red section to lengthen and shorten, then nip up the nuts again. It is really very obvious when you look at it properly.

And even if you did have to undo the two nuts attaching it to the lower arm....that's about 15 seconds each with a rattle gun. I do mine lying on my back on hot concrete with a breaker bar and ratchet not much slower than that!

[chiksluvit]

Also to get more caster, you shorten the tension rod, not extending it

[IMPORTS ONLY]

Um....no. You release both the plated nuts (at either end of the red section) and then you can turn the red section to lengthen and shorten, then nip up the nuts again. It is really very obvious when you look at it properly.

And even if you did have to undo the two nuts attaching it to the lower arm....that's about 15 seconds each with a rattle gun. I do mine lying on my back on hot concrete with a breaker bar and ratchet not much slower than that!

i thought i was doing something wrong haha, ill fix them up today so they adjust properly

Also to get more caster, you shorten the tension rod, not extending it

this confuses me because my right castor arm is extended longer then my left and has a higher positive castor? so moving the the front wheel forwards towards the front bar by shortening the rod would be adding to positive castor and moving it backwards towards the rear of the car by extending the rod would make the caster less positive?

[chiksluvit]

Correct
wheels forward = more caster
With rwd skylines 7 degree is good
Stock setting is around 5 I think?
I think ur caster is way off @ 3 degrees & 2
Shorten the left side some more first and work from there

Edited February 7, 2014 by chiksluvit

[KiwiRS4T]

I know I have a wagon and you don't but it is AWD and the weights and suspension are not that different so I'll give you my figures as a concrete goal. You may want to change them to suit your car and use ...

Castor L 6deg R 5.75

Camber 1.5 neg L & R

Toe 1mm toe out L & R

Rear camber 2 deg neg

Toe zero L&R

When you adjust front camber your toe will go miles out. You can adjust it roughly by eye and you can roughly measure your camber with a spirit level if your maths is not too bad. I don't know how you can measure castor except on the machine. Maybe you could look around for a better alignment operator as well!

[IMPORTS ONLY]

thanks for that, ill use those measurements and let you know how it ends up

Edited February 7, 2014 by IMPORTS ONLY