Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys got a problem my car didn't make the power I think it should have made.

Rb25det s1

Gt3076r .63 rear

High mount manifold

50mm wast gate with 14psi spring

800cc injectors

Bosh 044 fuel pump

Turbo smart fpr

Upgraded coil packs

Greddy copy intake.

3inch straight exhaust

Blitz dual solenoid boost controller

Microtech Lt12

I only made 296rwhp was the best run of the day at 18 psi

Seems low compared to others iv seen on this site?

Also I did notice that boost drops off from 18 nearly back to 14 at the top. Fuel and air sitting on about 11.6 . Any thoughts?

Edited by DriftSquad

You will need a stiffer spring in the gate imo, and the .63 rear won't be helping things.

Can you get us some pics of your setup? Was the exhaust dropped on the dyno?

I didn't get the chart as I was not happy with the tune. Tuning was done at Godzilla motor sport. On his dynonamics awd dyno

post-22485-0-64894800-1391732943_thumb.jpg

Edited by DriftSquad

and tell them to send you the tune file

I have a feeling the tune was shit house, also because it's a microtech lt12.. they're so clunky to tune with.. 2x tables to do essentially a single table can do.

I'll ask him to email it to me. Marks pretty good tuner. I mean it is a microguess lt12...

We had to pull some timing cuz she was pinging on boost. He said he thinks the .63 housing is to small

Not sure it's just a stainless manifold with gate mounted to it. The power I Made is not much better then a standard rb with a tune..

Edited by DriftSquad

Not sure it's just a stainless manifold with gate mounted to it. The power I Made is not much better then a standard rb with a tune..

If you had bought a decent standalone and left the FFP, stainless manifold, fpr, boost controller etc off the list, you will have had more money to spend on finding the issue on the dyno.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
    • Ohhh I see lol To be honest the main reason why I wanted to start modding is because of a business trip to Japan and Indonesia. I saw many cool and modded cars all throughout in these countries, especially Japan. I myself am of Chinese+Japanese nationality and when living in china (never lived in Japan js my dad side lol) I remember staring at these cars pass by with their loud tacky exhausts and insane wide body kits. And when I went back to Japan, I got even more invested even asking people about their cars and why they modded. Most gave similar answers to what you said but funny enough one guy just said that he saw the need for speed movie being filmed once in Tokyo I think near Shibuya Crossing and got inspired to tune and mod. After that I just started to fantasize on owning a car like that. Also tbh I prefer the R32 over the R34 it's just the R34 is more iconic lol (also apparently better aftermarket support than the R32) and my only goal really is just to make the car mine and make it fun to drive. As much as I love my Cayenne it's pretty bland to drive. Sure the interior is nice and pretty, gives you attention yada yada but I've wanted to experience what it is like to have a car that is truly yours. I suppose thats the goal so far. Haha if you find where I'm from, then sure. Ill help you out on your next "financial decision"
×
×
  • Create New...