Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To be clear tho, thanks for yr input, was going to pm u anyway about it so glad u chipped in. I 'm not an engineer and really for the priduction cost of under $50, not going to pay to consult one for this lil job lol so will just be using the knock it up and see how it performs approach.

spec-R I believe, not S?

That back-of-boot brace for the r33 gtr got a "noticeable difference" from the driver. I'm inclined to make something myself though which I don't think will cost that much and will be a bit more solid, ie, exhaust shop to bend a section of tube to run across back between mounting points, then welded to probably 3mm steel plates, bolted to chassis rails using existing 4xbolt holes as mentioned.

I could see the benefit of the front 1/4 panel triangular braces and it seems they're pretty popular/widely used so will be looking into that further too.

The B-pillar/floor brace - i get it in principle, as in using a 20?cm section of chassis rails either side joined to reduce twist, but given overall length of car/chassis rail, could see it making minimal difference.

I believe the only car that doesnt have the brace is the Jap Spec S - which comes with non turbo SR20... dont think you will find them here unless it's personal import, even Autech comes with the brace

Safe to say most of s15s in Aus will have that bracing

  • 3 weeks later...

slight hijack, but since relevant to the thread topic - after not finding the chassis braces I want, thinking I will just make my own. My understanding is, given an equal diameter and wall thickness, square tube will be stronger and flex less than round tube, is that right?

Like previously stated if the brace is in 2D form, it is just adding weight.

  • 2 weeks later...

Invest in a set of axle stands first or you may end up with someone dead under your car.

AGAIN for clarity. That is a f**king brave man under that car ! I had an R31 fall on me once, not cool !!!

Like previously stated if the brace is in 2D form, it is just adding weight.

see, this ain't right. I just finished making my boot-brace, modelled off the GTRS15 one linked above, and mann, you feel it as soon as you go around the first corner. Definitely worth doing but then I guess that's why Nissan bothered starting to put them on straight outta factory.

Thing is, that one that goes on the boot floor right at the back......what is it supposed to do? It doesn't stop the body from twisting - there's no triangulation. It doesn't stop suspension points moving relative to one another - it's nowhere near any of them. It is very hard to see how it could help at all. Therefore it is very hard to believe that it makes such a large difference that you can feel it straight away.

  • Like 1

Feeling is not really data... its just a sensation.

(edit*first decent corner)

Nah no offense but how about i don't bother. My experience is there as feedback, take or leave it, up to you.

(edit*first decent corner)

Nah no offense but how about i don't bother. My experience is there as feedback, take or leave it, up to you.

Really interested in some more feedback mate...this stuff has always interested me. Can you describe the differences you are feeling...thanks in advance

sure, well corner referred to is kind of a ? mark shape, entered from the curve-end. When getting back on throttle coming round 90deg section off to the left, the 'transitional' feeling during weight transfer one side to the other was reduced and a more solid feel to the rear end when applying power, as a basic explanation. Some people might be less sensitive to this than others...

The cheapest bracing is a $250 mig welder and some steel, you can have all the bracing you want.

I couldnt weld before, but its easy as.A mates 31 strut brace i made:

post-89755-0-58883900-1397889525_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-90226100-1397889545_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-11321800-1397889564_thumb.jpg

Im going through the same thing with bracing, and i think all the braces do is stop sideways slop for cornering at the track. Think about how they are all in a flat plane along the bottom of the car.

A rollcage would give the most twisting rigidity, because its a box not a flat brace. Bond in Sydney do them, CAMS approved, bolt in, about $600 for half cage. (r32)

Id also recomend a HICAS eliminator that eliminates the old ball joints too, like the Driftworks one.

You can make a bearing/bushing press with an old bottle jack and some steel. You can buy a set of press bits cheap on ebay. (the round bits to push on the bearing/bushing)

Bad driveway?

How long are you going to own cars?

If your not renting.... get your pick and shovel out and make it a home.

If you can do that you will have a place to do anything you want to your car.

post-89755-0-76302900-1397888480_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-08350100-1397888500_thumb.jpg

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

What about ripping your carpet and seats out and physically checking for cracked welds in the floor or chassis. Then get under the car with your local welder and seam weld the whole chassis. No roll cage just solid welds. Very effective. You'll need to do it anyway if the spot welds are coming apart, and it sounds like they are.

  • 2 years later...

20161114_171421.jpg20161115_082142.jpg

the latest product from A-Type performance industries. Best thing is it just bolts into existing mounting points and weighs 180 grams more than the stock 2-point flexi-piece.

This one here is just finishing completion - runs across the back of the car underneathat the end of the transmission tunnel, similar to the standard item on the later r33 and r34 gtr's, but with extra mounting points and much stiffer. Once again, no mods needed as bolts to existing mounting points. Small piece weighs bang on 1 kg and larger piece 1.76 kg. 

20161128_075931.jpg

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Initially I thought having a pair of Recaro seats would be a big bonus, it turns out these do get a little uncomfortable on long journeys (my fault, not the seat). I had a look through the GSM Performance website at reclining seats and booked an appointment to visit their show room. I got the Recaro Sportster CS for the R34 from here, was very happy with the service received so of course a re-visit was in order. Unfortunately the two Corbeau seats I had chosen aren't on display but they had 4 other options available. Two seats dug into my back, one dug into my legs and the other was perfect. I also found out that Recaro seats use a larger bolt pattern so some adaption was required. Luckily GSM offer some universal adaptors that should solve this problem. I searched the interwebs for price comparisons and Corbeau themselves were the cheapest at £300 cheaper (for the pair). I asked GSM if they could price match, unfortunately they couldn't. I later received an email saying Corbeau would honour them the same discount, but the purchase was already made. I did however order the brackets from GSM, both arrived on the same day. I started with the passenger side seat, knowing this was going to be a little trial and error. There are 3 mounting holes at the front and 2 at the rear on these JURAN Racing seat rails.  With the adaptor brackets mounted, the allen cap bolts started to push into the seat, NOT GOOD!  The rear mounting holes lined up but there were issues at the front. The holes were 1/2 hole out, so the brackets got a tickle with the drill to modify the holes. The supplied bolts weren't going to be long enough and a spacer was needed to stop the adaptor bars from bending. A local fasteners company supplied be with some nylon spacers and longer bolts (M8x30, although these will be replaced with 35mm long shortly) A before and after I pre-drilled the front bracket before making a start on the driver's seat to save some time. And in no time at all that was in the car too. The all black seats have transformed the interior and these are MUCH more comfortable. The only downside with the new Corbeau seats is I sit a little higher, but I'll happily accept that over discomfort. The Youtube video can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyttKPktXA
    • All 3 I guess. The car came with the JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit unpainted so this was one thing at the top of my list to complete then I noticed there were body panels parts for this kit so i picked them up along with some black mesh to fill in the front bumper and front side air vents. car is at a paint and body shop atm completing this work. Next I will be addressing the internal bells and whistles, great summer project I can do with the kids.  full interior removal - ,boys car sound deadening - pads and spray ,boys stereo, sound, lighting - Big 3, GTT or bigger alternator ,kids head lining - dye black add star lighting mod ,daughter. That's it for the next 5-6 months. I have some motor maintenance  work i have to plan out. oil filter relocation, gaskets, mounts. beyond that, mind is starting to turn over if i can use a DET intake plenum, block off turbo ports & pipe in a air intake.      
    • roller coaster of a ride. Alarm system was removed & main harness was repaired where possible. still no fix just random successful starts. moved on to the replacing the ignition switch and relay. well all this troubleshooting & repair has been going on, the car is at a paint and body shop being pushed around. Ive been going down there on odd days after work to get it sorted.     
    • 5th November if you want to come out for a spin wakfield
    • PROBLEM WAS BROKEN COOLANT SENSOR!!! Replaced with a new one and its running mint.
×
×
  • Create New...