Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there guys.

Wondering if this wifi scanner tool would connect to our jap obd2 systems?

http://www.obdsoftware.net/OBDLinkWifi.aspx

Anyone know if this would connect as I'm not 100% sure and thought at least a few of you would know if it would.

Cheers fellas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439766-wifi-obd2-jobdiphone-scanner-tool/
Share on other sites

I would hazard a guess and say no. Mainly as I have yet to see a reader work outside of Japanese ones.

Just get the HKS OB-link and a Samsung, the car is not hipster enough to talk with an Apple phone. :P

  • Like 1

I've ordered one of the newer dongles from OBDlink on Kickstarter to see if it works (I figured the $80ish investment was worth the risk)

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/obdsol/obdlink-mx-wifi-a-wireless-gateway-to-vehicle-obd?ref=live

If that fails, I too will be buying the HKS one.

LineItUp let us know how it goes. I have the plx kiwi2 but that dosnt seem to communicate with the apps or car.

That one on kickstarter seems to support JOBD which is what we use in the nm35 I'm pretty sure. Otherwise I'll be going Scotty's way of the hks obd link and an android tablet.

No worries,

I'll let you know. ETA for mine is still several months away. (it is Kickstarter after all)

I actually have an Uprev Cipher cable (I've got a V35 rather than a stag), but I want some on screen gauges as part of a project to put an Android tablet inside the guts of the pop up screen (been planning it for a while but was focusing on paying the car off... moving house next month and then I will start gathering parts).

So buying the HKS isn't a deal breaker, but it is pretty expensive for what it is.

It's pretty cheap for what it is imo. Nothing much else works on the 2.5's. There is always the Greddy Touch, but I guess $330 is way out of your price range. Bloody good value for 50 possible gauge readings...

Wow eta 3 months that's a long wait for the item LineItUp.

Scotty, does the OBDlink display the CEL fault codes in jap or English and what other features does it support ie. data logging, sensor readings, rpm, speed and so on?

Here's the HKS link for it if you're interested:

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product/electronics/monitor/ob-link/

If you've got an Android device you can install carscope and run it in demo mode to have a look. I was going down this path before I grabbed Craig's Greddy Informeter Touch.

As for what you get in the way of info someone else that has one will have to chime in, I'd be expecting the usual (RPM, Speed, Water Temp, Intake Temp, error codes etc..).

I've kicked in on that Kickstarter too, in the off chance it works on the m35's, yay, if not I'll stick it in something else.

Wow eta 3 months that's a long wait for the item LineItUp.

:rofl: 3 months is nothing for a Kickstarter product! I'll be impressed if we see it in 3 months, Im anticipating at least a 9 month wait. It took about 12 months to get my Pebble, its been 12 months since I backed Radiate Athletics for a tshirt, its been about 4 months since I backed for the Neat Ice kit :)

Not being a hater, just realistic. I backed the OBDLink as well :)

  • 6 months later...

Received my OBDLink today - down side is I won't have a chance to play with it until tomorrow night :( Im not holding my breath that it'll work with our bizarre cars but stranger things have happened.

Wonder if Lakes101 has his unit yet!

  • Like 2

Will update with results for sure :) Sounds like a few people have had dramas though, Im hoping they're just a bit inept and unable to follow some pretty basic instructions (I glanced at the user guide.. its pretty clear). Time will tell ;)

In terms of what app, their android one is https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=OCTech.Mobile.Applications.OBDLink and iOS one is https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/obdlink/id879636351?mt=8 theres also a windows application http://www.obdlink.com/software/

I believe the device should work with other apps, time will tell? I've not looked in to that.

Yeah no matter how much technology support I got from the company's that developed the devices supplied we couldn't get them to work on jobd.

I've recently switched to android so the bluetooth one looks like my best option.

Cheers dunc keep us posted

  • 3 months later...

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I have been reading about the 04-05 zze122 corollas having the same issue as us with the OBD2 Bluetooth scanner not being compatible or the program not being able to pick up the scanner. In saying that they have finally fixed this issue. See below.

"I finally got my generic ELM 327 Bluetooth OBD scan tool to work with my 2004 corolla sportivo. Turned out the internal "handshake" needed to communicate with the ECU is quite particular, so when running the TORQUE application on galaxy S4, I set up a vehicle profile for the sportive, then scroll all the way down to the "custom conflagration string" field and input the following:

ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8113F1 \n ATSP A4 \n ATSW00

and here is what it does/mean"

ATIB 96 \n - set the ISO baud rate to 9600

ATIIA 13 \n - set ISO (slow) init address to 13

ATSH8113F1 \n - set header to 8113F1

ATSP A4 \n - set protocol to ATO 4 and save it

ATSW00 - set wakeup interval to )) x 20 msec"

So that was what the corolla guys did to get theirs to work with theirs. This is way to technical for myself but we may have someone here that can use this information and may one day get it working for our vehicles like they have so give us this option along with the HKS OBD link.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...