Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently had to charge my flat battery ( not using car very much at the moment) and when I attached the neg lead back to the battery (with pos obviously already connected) I accidently (and clumsily) touched the ratchet used to tighten the nut between the neg and pos terminals of the battery resulting in big spark and me jumping quite high.

The car has been used since then and everything seems normal, but my question is could there have been damage to the electrics and/or the battery?

Many thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439770-accidentally-shorted-battery/
Share on other sites

And the ratchet would glow bright yellow and then melt before the battery went flat anyway. And in the meantime, the only effect at the ECU would have been removal of power.

The real problem you have heard about (although obviously not correctly) is reverse polarity connection. Hook up a jumper battery or car backwards and see what happens to the ECU (which may be nothing, depending on how good the RP protection is).

Edited by GTSBoy

Realistically, the welding thing is perfectly true. Or at least it used to be. And it isn't the battery terminals you need to remove. The ECU needed to be unplugged from the loom to prevent it from getting nasty zaps up through the earth connections.

More modern cars and ECUs have much better protection against this sort of thing so you can get away with it. But back when all this was new, many ECUs and other vehicle electronics were damaged by welding.

Well it shorted through my ratchet, so it should be fine, only thing would be the ECU that would be damaged if left on long enough and I would have known by now if it was wrecked. Are there any other components besides the ECU that can be damaged?

Think about it, Your shorting a battery accross the terminals. Basically you are bypassing everything between the positive and negative circuit in the battery. The only damage will be to your ratchet.

Unplugging sensitive electrics when welding is a good practice to do, in theory if you have the earth lead close to where you are welding (and provided it isnt near an ECU etc) then the chances of damaging it are minimised Because the circuit wants to take the shortest route to the earth lead. So if the earth lead is at the back of the car and you are welding on the front reo bar, you can imagine that the circuit is much more likely to join with the ECU circuit then if you have the Earth lead closer to the welding area. Having said that, I would never weld on a car without unplugging ECU's etc because its alot of current to pass through the chassis

Shorting across the battery terminals is not much different to shorting from the positive to the chassis (because the Battery negative goes to a nearby Chassis earth anyway)

The most likely thing you will damage is the battery. This is a bit more of an issue if the battery is in the boot, has been through some charging cycles and there is hydrogen gas around. Arcing the terminals can result in battery explosion. I've seen plenty of horrible photos of people messing with batteries in dump trucks/dozers where this has happened and the battery is a mangled wreck.

Summary:

Shorting battery terminals, not advisable but generally doesnt end in disaster

Welding with ECU's plugged in: No

Edited by 89CAL

Remember that some ECU's require a 5V power source for sensors and dont generally like higher voltages then that.

OHMS law proves that voltage is proportional to current. Voltage goes up, current goes up

Edited by 89CAL

Welding........much more than 12v.

And much more current then you will find in your fuse box in your car :)

Some people are lucky and get away with welding with everything still connected, but for the small amount of effort it takes to unplug stuff, its not worth the risk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...