Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

on my 1995 r33 i got i changed the plugs put a boost controller on and a plumb back bov all turbo smart items when the car comes on boost its dies and carry s on like shit and surging jerking not sure what i can do boost level is on 8 has fmic and 3" exhaust i have reset the ecu but still nothing it idles fine takes of good but when i hit the rpm range it goes to shit any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439971-hits-4500-to-5000-rpm-than-dies/
Share on other sites

Take it all off?

Understand, each one of those mods has changed the boost level and tune in some way, did you gap the plugs down at least?

Search for R+R, it is the ecu protecting itself from stupidity. :)

yep the boost is turned right down and i understand how all that works and all the mods it was doing this before i added all the mods it runs a lot better since i put the boost controller on and yes the plugs have been gapped down

since when do you have to get it sorted before modding it? why not upgrade when a factory item fails?.....well... i'd put money on a failed coil...test those i reckon.....when you get those working correctly...the next thing you'll be limited by is the AFM....

well what i can tell some one done a boost mod the line from the turbo went into the intake pipe the over hose blocked of so i connected a boost controler to see if that works and i put a plump back bov on cause i got sick of tired hear this fluttering sound sorry i am new to all of this turbo stuff it is one big learning kerp for me :(

Starting wuth a nice running car is always the best option, I suppose I don't like headd aches.

You should have just plumbed the wastegate directly to control boost.

Edited by superben

as superben says...connect the wastegate actuator directly to the intake pipe where it would normally go....this will give you factory boost (without the solenoid) messing with boost can be bad...if you don't know what you are doing plumbing the boost controller in then i'd recommend getting someone to help you...like a performance car shop or tuner shop.

I agree its likely a coil. There is no sure fire to test them other than to swap with known working ones.

You might get lucky and be able to clean the boots and put in some silcon grease but I doubt it.

When you say boost is on 8 do you mean psi? I had a mate trying to set his boost to 10psi years ago but his gauge was in bar, he just ignored the decimal point.

Remove boost controller, connect directly so its minimum boost, report back.

on my 1995 r33 i got i changed the plugs put a boost controller on and a plumb back bov all turbo smart items when the car comes on boost its dies and carry s on like shit and surging jerking not sure what i can do boost level is on 8 has fmic and 3" exhaust i have reset the ecu but still nothing it idles fine takes of good but when i hit the rpm range it goes to shit any ideas?

Do you have a boost gauge? Are you sure you have the boost turned right down or have you turned it right up? Post up your location and see if you can get someone to have a look at your set-up.

I am putting my money on it being boost cut. I am with Superben, I bet this bloke is looking at the boost gauge thinking its in psi

Do yourself a favour and find a local Skyline specialist and get them to set the boost up on the dyno.

Badgaz, are you really saying that modifying a car to fix a problem is a good thing? You should never do that. You should always start with a perfect running car and modify from there. Installing mods to cover up an issue is only going to end in tears

You'll probably find if it was set at factory boost level without the increase solenoid, you should only get 5psi max *confirmation needed,

And up to 8psi @ 4500rpm and above, with the solenoid Connected.

If you have your boost T in backwards, it won't work at all regardless of where you set the screw,

It will boost way up to about 15-18psi then you'll get fuel cut, r&r, max out the afm etc.

it will drive fine until you load it up then it will really let you know something isn't right!

Edited by nicksamaniac

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
×
×
  • Create New...