Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All


I know Nissan cars use these as OEM and they come with flow charts and a 3 year warranty(which is useless for me since its in the US)



Has anyone purchased this before? Good or bad idea? Dont really want to fork out $1000 for Nismo's if these do the job.





Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440013-jecs-injectors-from-usa/
Share on other sites

Custom, flow-matched, 750cc, side-feed, high-performance, Nissan fuel injectors

  • Fits your stock fuel rail and intake for Nissan 1993-98 Skyline RB25DET, 1993-96 300ZX
  • All new o-rings included for installation
  • This is a brand new set of 6 (six) injectors--custom manufactured from genuine Nissan/Japanese Electronics Corp (JECS) fuel injectors to flow at 750cc/min at 3 bar

FLOW CHART: Each set is sold with a complete flow-data chart indicating individual dynamic and static flow rates at 3, 3.5, and 4 BAR at 25%, 50% and 100% for each injector, along with dead time (latency) at 14 volts.

Flow matching was done with industry-standard equipment of the highest quality. The test was performed at varying temperatures to achieve realistic results.

All have been custom manufactured from original equipment

Japanese Nissan (JECS) fuel injectors to the higher flow rating and placed in flow-matched sets and sold with our 3 Year New Parts Warranty.

To insure a quality product our shop adheres to the highest standard of manufacturing/milling and flow-matching using the industry's best-quality equipment.

We use Heptane as our testing agent.

This injector set is for modified engines with high horsepower. See Chart below.

$510 per set of 6 fuel injectors

Injector Body Design: Metal and composite plastic

Flow rates:

(These are true and tested flow rates of this individual set of 6 fuel injectors.

We use Heptane as our testing agent).

750cc/min at 43.5 psi (3 bar)

Excellent low pulse width response with predictable response.

Excellent atomization for modern multi-valve engines.

This set will require no more than a 1% trim for easy tuning.

Item Condition:

All of the Fiveomotorsport fuel injectors are shipped in brand-new condition unless otherwise stated as reconditioned or take-out injectors. All fuel injectors are covered by our warranty outlined below, unless otherwise stated.

Fiveo's Exclusive Warranty:

We stand behind all of our products with our 36 month/unlimited miles warranty. If you are not 100% satisfied, we will refund your purchase price for returned unused fuel injectors in their original packaging, minus shipping costs and up to a 15% restocking fee. If you ever have an injector go outside specification or fail for any reason when functioning within the stated operating conditions, we will replace it with a brand new fuel injector. You pay only the shipping costs. (Some racing applications may void this warranty).

Shipping and Handling Time:

All orders received by 2pm PST Monday-Friday will ship the same day. Orders received after 2pm on Friday will ship the following Monday. Average delivery times are listed below:

USPS priority mail – 3 business days

USPS Express International – 5-8 business days

FedEx Overnight

FedEx 2-Day

Can't click ebay link at work... Side feed rb25?

Suggest trying Coz and www.conceptzperformance.com for Jecs. I bought my 1000's from him. Great to deal with, fast shipping.

How much did you pay?

I bought the 1000s from 5omotorsport and so far so good.

awesome, probably going to go 550's. Any other experiences from JECS from the USA?

Also, why dont people do this as a cheaper alternative to $1000 Nismos?( or is this route a common upgrade for injectors )

Because highflowed injectors usually have a shitty spray pattern, and they can cause idle issues, especially in the higher volume injectors. A flow test doesn't show the quality of the nozzle, or if the body of the injector is second hand as Mike mentioned.

You are better off changing to a top feed rail and shoving Bosch ev14 injectors in there imo. Cheaper, faster, better spray pattern, and no issues with ethanol if you decide to upgrade. There is a good reason people recommend them.

A bit grey on info, but some of the JECS are remanufactured.

Some prefer 'nismo' on their shopping list

Heard of this , but this one seems to be rand new. I think the remanufactured ones are sold in AUS (i would not buy re manufactured personally)

Because highflowed injectors usually have a shitty spray pattern, and they can cause idle issues, especially in the higher volume injectors. A flow test doesn't show the quality of the nozzle, or if the body of the injector is second hand as Mike mentioned.

You are better off changing to a top feed rail and shoving Bosch ev14 injectors in there imo. Cheaper, faster, better spray pattern, and no issues with ethanol if you decide to upgrade. There is a good reason people recommend them.

This is exactly what I was looking for.

There are common upgrades for the RB ( z32 afm , splifire coils etc)

What is the common upgrade for injectors (am I to assume its the 550 Nismos?)

Dont really want to go top feed and have to mess around with brackets. Is there anything else with a proven track record that is drop in?

Sard 650's, nismo 555(old)/615(new)/740.

I used the 1000cc jecs without issues.

Originally used sard. Did not have a good time with them.

Can you elaborate more on Sard as I have been thinking about going with them as well....

Whats the Splitfire equivalent for injectors( an item that has been tested continuously my members of this forum with almost all of them agreeing that these are good reputable items) Are they Nismo 550's?

Can only speak about z32 application but part number is same.

I do not like the way that they use an oring on an oring to seal the injector into the bucket. That's the first/main issue (again, in z32 application).

Second issue is they cost me 2 engines (1 forged) because 1 was not flowing as it should at higher duty. Issue was masked by the others showing 'safe' afr's.

Not specifically the injectors fault, but I blame them :P

Nismo 555's have been used in z32 for aaaaaaaaages. They are the benchmark for oem replacement, upgraded injectors.

New style nismo 615s have superceeded the 555's AFAIK.

Edited by MagicMikeZ32

Can only speak about z32 application but part number is same.

I do not like the way that they use an oring on an oring to seal the injector into the bucket. That's the first/main issue (again, in z32 application).

Second issue is they cost me 2 engines (1 forged) because 1 was not flowing as it should at higher duty. Issue was masked by the others showing 'safe' afr's.

Not specifically the injectors fault, but I blame them :P

Nismo 555's have been used in z32 for aaaaaaaaages. They are the benchmark for oem replacement, upgraded injectors.

New style nismo 615s have superceeded the 555's AFAIK.

If Nismos are the go to, then I might just fork our for that. I'm a believer of do it once do it right and am not about to cheap out on something like injectors. Oh well , thought Id find something a bit cheaper that would do the job. Guess not :(

I was originally looking at the Five-0 Motorsport injectors as well. But heard Stao (Hypergear) had one fail on him, and then search on the interwebs showed several reviews where reliability was coming up as a concern. I'm sure there are plenty that are running with no problem as well, but it was enough of a worry for me to fork out the extra for the Nismos.

And yes, I do also like seeing Nismo on my shopping list :P

Be careful, there are many fakes getting about.

Still much cheaper to grab a top feed rail. It's not hard to fit either. Just get them to do it before it goes on the dyno. Has anyone tried the 34neo rail yet? I think a few are running them, might be worth looking into.

Be careful, there are many fakes getting about.

Still much cheaper to grab a top feed rail. It's not hard to fit either. Just get them to do it before it goes on the dyno. Has anyone tried the 34neo rail yet? I think a few are running them, might be worth looking into.

Dont want to make my engine look more modified then I have to. Keepin the po po's at bay :)

I'm thinking of getting it from here(seller jdmplanet on eGay):

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISMO-555CC-INJECTOR-SKYLINE-R33-ENR33-ER33-ECR33-RB25-RB25DET-X-1-/221185258946?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337fab35c2&_uhb=1

Unless someone can suggest a reputable dealer?

Also would I need to purchase a fuel reg? Shooting for 230rwkw

Edited by tripsteady

No to fuel reg - you wont get anywhere near to maxing out 550s. They're an ugly hack anyway.

Edit: FYI the rule of thumb for 6 cylinder engines is 1 flywheel HP per cc of injector size, so 550cc injectors means ~550HP.

No to fuel reg - you wont get anywhere near to maxing out 550s. They're an ugly hack anyway.

Edit: FYI the rule of thumb for 6 cylinder engines is 1 flywheel HP per cc of injector size, so 550cc injectors means ~550HP.

Thanks Mr Stabby. I have all the answers I need now :)

Nismo 555's here I come. I'l create another thread for best price/best place to buy 555's. I havnt seen an updated one before and it should help those looking to buy the 555's as they are a popular upgrade.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...