Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is no point doing the hfcs if you haven't upgraded your intake, y-pipe, mid and rear portions of your exhaust - it can't breathe.

My 03 V35 made 183rwkw and since your engine comes out with 20+ more kw you should be making more than this.

And/or get a better tuner.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440098-370gt-dyno-pic/#findComment-7218592
Share on other sites

I did drool over the GTM stage 2 kit

450 something whp.

But, kit cost 10k usd + exchange rate + 10% import duty tax + shipping 1.1k

Level 10 transmission and torque converter 4k usd + etc

carbonetics lsd 1.5k

so on.

I wish I had the ability and unlimited fund like you scotty

I will be stuck with my gt cruiser for a while until I get a r35 when sh*ts get real :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440098-370gt-dyno-pic/#findComment-7219178
Share on other sites

Most reading I have done they say to replace the oem filter with a better brand/higher flowing one. I have the HKS filter, but I couldn't find it on a quick scan of Ebay.

This one looks similar though:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/APEXI-PANEL-AIR-FILTER-SKYLINE-V35-M35-STAGEA-VQ25-VQ30-VQ35-/131130891920?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e88029e90

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440098-370gt-dyno-pic/#findComment-7220398
Share on other sites

Don't beat yourself up, a dyno is a comparative tool only. You can't compare to people on different dynos.

Go clock a quarter mile, post your mph, and I bet you're no slower than any other car with the same mods.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440098-370gt-dyno-pic/#findComment-7221195
Share on other sites

Yer, the owner said the power delivery is very linear and afr is pretty much bang on.

on closed road i was dead even with a 08 stock 370z manual and a 3.6 996 tiptronic from standing still to 100

similar comparing to a 04 e46 m3 convertible smg as well.

i am just shocked how low the output comparing to the figures in the us.

people with the similar mods gets around 290whp and 270whp on mustang dyno which reads lower figures.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440098-370gt-dyno-pic/#findComment-7221484
Share on other sites

Best example of difference in dynos was my s14

got it tuned, made on the lower side for those kind of mods but shop kinda renound for lower figures. Car made 225KW. Two weeks later went to a dyno day without changing anything at another shop and the car made 245kw, and most people were saying at the dyno day they were getting lower figures than they usually did :lol:

AS said about dyno is more of a tuning tool and real comparisons cant really be made unless they are on the same one with same settings

Edited by (Locky)
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440098-370gt-dyno-pic/#findComment-7221504
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...