Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I thought I'd post up some pics of a pair of headlights I repaired and restored. They arrived to me in average condition with damaged rear housings, some severe yellowing and previous internal lens coating work.

The damage on the rear housing was tidied up and the sharp broken edges were cut away. Some new plastic of a suitable shape was found and cut out to suit. Once I was happy with the shaping, I plastic welded the replacement plastic into place.

(The green is a ball of tape to stop any cut off plastic falling into the housing)

IMG_4372_zpsd6fdc8fd.jpg

IMG_4373_zpscfe5ef49.jpg

IMG_4374_zpse8883920.jpg

The outside of both lenses were wet sanded, starting off at 1500grit and working up to 2500grit (In the future I would go up to 3000grit).

IMG_4379_zps66cc4331.jpg

This revealed the coating on the inside of the lens which meant the headlight had to come apart. It's hard to see, but there is an odd shape on the surface. That is where I've started wetsanding. Once done I then polished the inside of the lens.

IMG_4413_zps0aca7d95.jpg

IMG_4412_zpsc266c65b.jpg

The reflectors and internals were given a tidy up and the loose indicator lenses were fixed into place. Here they are back together ready for external polishing.

IMG_4415_zps2e2373d9.jpg

I used Scratch-X to begin with and worked my way up from using Menzerna 1000, 2500, 5000.

IMG_4417_zpsb5e34040.jpg

IMG_4418_zpscda2c9a8.jpg

From this they were then hit with Menzerna UF, followed by 4 layers of AMMO Skin and AMMO Creme.

IMG_4437_zps6ca87839.jpg

IMG_4438_zpsbb76bd14.jpg

IMG_4439_zpsa6bbc0b9.jpg

IMG_4440_zpsdc87f76d.jpg

Enjoy!! :D

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440962-r34-headlight-restoration/
Share on other sites

Thanks for the kind words guys. As has already been explained, the headlights can be removed with either a hot air gun or a putting them in the oven. I prefer to use a hot air gun.

excellent! i'd love to carry out these restorations, as buying good condition headlights are so expensive, and all it takes is a little time to fix up a damaged set. great work mate

Thanks mate. A little time and effort gives the best results ;)

we need ppl like you in sydney :(

Cheers. Shoot me a PM ;)

Great work on the 34 head lights btw

Thanks mate.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

Hows the protectabt holdng up...i fond the heat from.the lights just tends to burn it off very quickly...

Really need to let some proper UV protectabt on there because once you strip off the coating it will cause them to yellow from.the inside out...

Have also heard about clearcoating them, haven't tried it tho...but a clear heatpeoof paint should work well in theory..

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Rubbing the lenses back and clear coating them is the best option.

Digging up an old thread here, getting desperate.

Mine are pretty bad, followed a lot of advice via SAU and my mechanic who reccomended to buy a headlight restoration kit, but much of the discolouration is on the interior, not exterior.

I've just tee'd up a cut and polish for mine (black, looking very dull at the moment) and was wondering who might be able to do this work for me as I'm not that comfortable whacking parts of my car in the oven :P

Digging up an old thread here, getting desperate.

Mine are pretty bad, followed a lot of advice via SAU and my mechanic who reccomended to buy a headlight restoration kit, but much of the discolouration is on the interior, not exterior.

I've just tee'd up a cut and polish for mine (black, looking very dull at the moment) and was wondering who might be able to do this work for me as I'm not that comfortable whacking parts of my car in the oven :P

I've never seen them fade on the inside. If they're that stuffed, find a replacement set.

Digging up an old thread here, getting desperate.

Mine are pretty bad, followed a lot of advice via SAU and my mechanic who reccomended to buy a headlight restoration kit, but much of the discolouration is on the interior, not exterior.

I've just tee'd up a cut and polish for mine (black, looking very dull at the moment) and was wondering who might be able to do this work for me as I'm not that comfortable whacking parts of my car in the oven :P

Where are you located mate?

  • Like 1

Where are you located mate?

Latrobe Valley, Victoria - had a recent cut and polish done, cherry glaze etc (came up a million bucks) and spike of the lights, was quoted 100 per light. Sound about right? Not sure if that's interior or exterior.

I know some of these guys are just gonna be like "get new ones" but id rather have a crack at another solution before I dish out bulk coin because they are quite expensive

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...