Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I thought I'd post up some pics of a pair of headlights I repaired and restored. They arrived to me in average condition with damaged rear housings, some severe yellowing and previous internal lens coating work.

The damage on the rear housing was tidied up and the sharp broken edges were cut away. Some new plastic of a suitable shape was found and cut out to suit. Once I was happy with the shaping, I plastic welded the replacement plastic into place.

(The green is a ball of tape to stop any cut off plastic falling into the housing)

IMG_4372_zpsd6fdc8fd.jpg

IMG_4373_zpscfe5ef49.jpg

IMG_4374_zpse8883920.jpg

The outside of both lenses were wet sanded, starting off at 1500grit and working up to 2500grit (In the future I would go up to 3000grit).

IMG_4379_zps66cc4331.jpg

This revealed the coating on the inside of the lens which meant the headlight had to come apart. It's hard to see, but there is an odd shape on the surface. That is where I've started wetsanding. Once done I then polished the inside of the lens.

IMG_4413_zps0aca7d95.jpg

IMG_4412_zpsc266c65b.jpg

The reflectors and internals were given a tidy up and the loose indicator lenses were fixed into place. Here they are back together ready for external polishing.

IMG_4415_zps2e2373d9.jpg

I used Scratch-X to begin with and worked my way up from using Menzerna 1000, 2500, 5000.

IMG_4417_zpsb5e34040.jpg

IMG_4418_zpscda2c9a8.jpg

From this they were then hit with Menzerna UF, followed by 4 layers of AMMO Skin and AMMO Creme.

IMG_4437_zps6ca87839.jpg

IMG_4438_zpsbb76bd14.jpg

IMG_4439_zpsa6bbc0b9.jpg

IMG_4440_zpsdc87f76d.jpg

Enjoy!! :D

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440962-r34-headlight-restoration/
Share on other sites

Thanks for the kind words guys. As has already been explained, the headlights can be removed with either a hot air gun or a putting them in the oven. I prefer to use a hot air gun.

excellent! i'd love to carry out these restorations, as buying good condition headlights are so expensive, and all it takes is a little time to fix up a damaged set. great work mate

Thanks mate. A little time and effort gives the best results ;)

we need ppl like you in sydney :(

Cheers. Shoot me a PM ;)

Great work on the 34 head lights btw

Thanks mate.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

Hows the protectabt holdng up...i fond the heat from.the lights just tends to burn it off very quickly...

Really need to let some proper UV protectabt on there because once you strip off the coating it will cause them to yellow from.the inside out...

Have also heard about clearcoating them, haven't tried it tho...but a clear heatpeoof paint should work well in theory..

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Rubbing the lenses back and clear coating them is the best option.

Digging up an old thread here, getting desperate.

Mine are pretty bad, followed a lot of advice via SAU and my mechanic who reccomended to buy a headlight restoration kit, but much of the discolouration is on the interior, not exterior.

I've just tee'd up a cut and polish for mine (black, looking very dull at the moment) and was wondering who might be able to do this work for me as I'm not that comfortable whacking parts of my car in the oven :P

Digging up an old thread here, getting desperate.

Mine are pretty bad, followed a lot of advice via SAU and my mechanic who reccomended to buy a headlight restoration kit, but much of the discolouration is on the interior, not exterior.

I've just tee'd up a cut and polish for mine (black, looking very dull at the moment) and was wondering who might be able to do this work for me as I'm not that comfortable whacking parts of my car in the oven :P

I've never seen them fade on the inside. If they're that stuffed, find a replacement set.

Digging up an old thread here, getting desperate.

Mine are pretty bad, followed a lot of advice via SAU and my mechanic who reccomended to buy a headlight restoration kit, but much of the discolouration is on the interior, not exterior.

I've just tee'd up a cut and polish for mine (black, looking very dull at the moment) and was wondering who might be able to do this work for me as I'm not that comfortable whacking parts of my car in the oven :P

Where are you located mate?

  • Like 1

Where are you located mate?

Latrobe Valley, Victoria - had a recent cut and polish done, cherry glaze etc (came up a million bucks) and spike of the lights, was quoted 100 per light. Sound about right? Not sure if that's interior or exterior.

I know some of these guys are just gonna be like "get new ones" but id rather have a crack at another solution before I dish out bulk coin because they are quite expensive

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...