Jump to content
SAU Community

Proxy Kill Switch

c34Florry

By c34Florry,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

c34Florry Collaborator

c34Florry

Posted
Posted

Ive recently been thinking about putting a killswitch in my stagea. Ive sat in the drivers seat and picked out 5 places I would look for one if I was to steal a car amd can't think of another convenient place to put it so im now thinking of a proximity sensor (like an rfid key tag amd a unit under the dash or similar wired up to the fuel pump). Has anyone done this or seen this done before? Also need it time delayed or run through the turbo timer. Does anyone know of a reputable alarm specialist in Adelaide that might be able to help out with putting my words into action? As I have a poor history of auto elecricianism.. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440963-proxy-kill-switch/
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Random, but my old VL had a screw you had to hold your finger on while turning the key. I can PM the location to you of where it was, probably shouldnt announce it on here

As for how it was done... I have no idea. Screw with a wire off to somewhere. Car came like that so never bothered to check it out. It didnt have an alarm so must have just been utilising the stock electrics etc. Not sure it would even be an option on the VL.

It let everything turn on but the starter

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Ive recently been thinking about putting a killswitch in my stagea. Ive sat in the drivers seat and picked out 5 places I would look for one if I was to steal a car amd can't think of another convenient place to put it so im now thinking of a proximity sensor (like an rfid key tag amd a unit under the dash or similar wired up to the fuel pump). Has anyone done this or seen this done before? Also need it time delayed or run through the turbo timer. Does anyone know of a reputable alarm specialist in Adelaide that might be able to help out with putting my words into action? As I have a poor history of auto elecricianism.. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated :)

This looks like a handy device. It suggests putting it in the fuel pump line but you could use in a number of ways to disable the car:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=704435597

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

The reason I don't like that ^ is it's another remote that you need to carry around. And either you're going to put that on your keys, which ultimately defeats the purpose because most cars are stolen via the keys; or you need to have it separate to your keys, in which case where do you keep it?

I would prefer a completely separate device, and I don't care if it takes me 5 minutes to start my car every time I drive it. The harder it is for me to start the car, the harder it will be for any potential thieves.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Thats what I liked about mine. There was no need to carry anything extra, no button, was just (AFAIK) earthing out a circuit to enable the start circuit

It was probably just the earth side of the starter signal (from the key) to the screw so it had no earth till you put your hand on the screw and then on the key (grounded through the key switch) then the car would start. If you didnt know where the screw was, the car wouldnt start.

BUT this way you could still bridge the solenoid on the starter moter and get it going etc. So its not the best way to do it. But you might be able to do something similiar with the fuel pump circuit.

This is just an idea, not sure it would work in a skyline, and it might not be what you are looking for

533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

Ive recently been thinking about putting a killswitch my stagea. Ive sat in the drivers seat and picked out 5 places I would look for one if I was to steal a car amd can't think of another convenient place to put it so im now thinking of a proximity sensor (like an rfid key tag amd a unit under the dash or similar wired up to the fuel pump). Has anyone done this or seen this done before? Also need it time delayed or run through the turbo timer. Does anyone know of a reputable alarm specialist in Adelaide that might be able to help out with putting my words into action? As I have a poor history of auto elecricianism.. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated :)

First things first, In the name of security, get rid of the turbo timer. They give thieving f#%ks the three wires needed to start your car!!!

In regards to kill switches, many years ago in a car I don't own anymore, I fitted one in the right hand air vent (between dash & drivers door) about 2 1\2" down the duct. It ment I had a 3" long thin bit of aluminum on my key ring. 3 attempts were made to steal it, but they never got it (it was a near mint XC Fairmont 378 stroker, top loader, 9" yada yada yada).

  • Like 1
enka Community Regular

enka

Posted
Posted (edited)

The reason I don't like that ^ is it's another remote that you need to carry around. And either you're going to put that on your keys, which ultimately defeats the purpose because most cars are stolen via the keys; or you need to have it separate to your keys, in which case where do you keep it?

I would prefer a completely separate device, and I don't care if it takes me 5 minutes to start my car every time I drive it. The harder it is for me to start the car, the harder it will be for any potential thieves.

the tag can be replaced by smartphone, it it acts like an rfid device

is it similar to what viper has..?

Edited by enka
  • 3 months later...
c34Florry Collaborator

c34Florry

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Forgot about this thread.. something im still really keen on..

First things first, In the name of security, get rid of the turbo timer. They give thieving f#%ks the three wires needed to start your car!!!

Noted and have since done so.

you are really talking a custom solution. forget traditional car audio shops..

Ill have a hunt around for specialist I s'pose

As far as 'another remote', im imagining something like a supercheap club keytag sized myki thing that when within five meters of a receiver in cabin turns the immobilizer off. Start car like usual. Outside the radius, immobilizer on.

key pass over a sensor behind the dash

this could work Edited by c34Florry

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Marek
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Marek · Posted

      Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Marek
      Hi everyone.

      By Marek · Posted

      Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • soviet_merlin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...