Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fairly new to skylines as ive only had my r33 for about a month. I want to have a crack at drift but the stock viscous lsd is very loose and unpredictable. I've done a bit of research and from what I've read the viscous lsds aren't worth wasting money on (correct me if I'm wrong).

So what are my best value for money options considering the car will still be driven on the road from time to time. ( I have no interest in welding my diff I'd rather do it right and do it once)

- Buy an new aftermarket lsd such as kaaz, nismo, cusco (expensive. Are they worth the money?)

-buy a second hand diff with aftermarket lsd installed from an importer. ( a little less expensive and lsd is already installed but worried I will get one that's worn out and needs rebuilding which could get costly)

- from what I have read Gtrs had a mechanical 2 way that works well when shimmed/rebuilt will these fit in a gtst how much work is involved and what kind of money would this set me back.

Any advice from someone with experience would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441360-r33-gtst-lsd-diff-options/
Share on other sites

Lots of guys into drift run a 2 way but either will suit your purposes really. All of the above-mentioned brands would be fine as they are tried and tested. Kaaz have good support and make all the clutches etc. available for rebuild if it becomes worn out down the track, unsure about availability of the others.

As above, most drift guys will likely run a 2 way over a 1.5 way.

I bought my Kaaz 1.5 way diff centre second hand from Yahoo auctions Japan and had it shipped over through Jesse Streeter. I think the 2 way diffs were even less as there were more around than the 1.5 ways when I was looking.

Cost me a bit less than $500 delivered. Had it refurb'd and reshimmed locally, then installed into my existing diff housing. Cost me around $1000 by the time it was in my car.

Diff is super tight and haven't looked back!

Best option is R34 helical. Found on later model coupe GTT only R34 manual. Good luck !

Won't need rebuilt, better street diff than clutch-type but not as good for 100% balls-out lifted wheel action on a track.

My mechanical is noisy. It makes the inside wheel skip and chatter on turns, and gives the car a good shake when cold.

It's not a daily driver though so I don't mind it.

Throw in OS GIKEN 80W-250. Calmed down my GT Pro by 90%.
  • 2 weeks later...
My mechanical is noisy. It makes the inside wheel skip and chatter on turns, and gives the car a good shake when cold.

It's not a daily driver though so I don't mind it.

Add limslip or use Nulon SAE90 GL5 oil. Mines pretty good and you don't even notice it half the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...