Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would have loved a BW turbo & full race manifold too.. but when both items cost as much as your car x2.. it's a stupid investment lol

This logic is not logical...how is anything that makes your car faster a stupid investment :rolleyes:

So I spoke to my fabricator and he thinks this is an awesome idea...I mean sure i could just buy an aftermarket manifold, and a cheap turbo and gate option and build the same car every body else does....but wheres the fun and discovery in that.....

need to start saving my pennies ;)

$2057 + $1978 + postage = $2,000??

He said half of what its worth :)

The price went down now anyway, it now sports broken sway links lol

Edited by GTScotT

So I spoke to my fabricator and he thinks this is an awesome idea...I mean sure i could just buy an aftermarket manifold, and a cheap turbo and gate option and build the same car every body else does....but wheres the fun and discovery in that.....

need to start saving my pennies ;)

You have another fabricator I assume Dave? I don't remember that conversation. lol. I'm sure I could sort out something Artz worthy though. :P

The stainless body Xspurt 1400's are released now, do you want me to buy you a set mate? You can't be driving around on petrol still...

He said half of what its worth :)

The price went down now anyway, it now sports broken sway links lol

ohh fekkkkkkkkkking shit box.. I wanna burn it (if only it had full comprehensive insurance)

ohh fekkkkkkkkkking shit box.. I wanna burn it (if only it had full comprehensive insurance)

LOL FYI your sway links are no worse a design than an S chassis and an S14 has a 27mm front sway from stock.

Just bad luck IMHO :)

I'll fix that, then something else will break.. like my wideband, it's completely dead now. I bought a new sensor and it still showing HTR...

I give up, I want a C63 AMG lol

lol welcome to the hobby.

Buying C63 = giving up. You're not a quitter are you ;) ?

nooooo just lazy.. bought a new fan clutch, turns out the farking thing was seized.. ended up bending more fins on the radiator to remove the fan (again) - didn't want to dump my radiator fluid and take out the radiatro just to remove the fan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...