Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi fellow skyline enthusiasts.

I am changing my rego from Nsw to ACT registration as i purchased my car from NSW but hold an ACT license.

I failed my first attempt at the Pits at the Dickson inspection station because one of the flanges on the exhaust hit the metal ridges which protude from the surrounding of the pit. I was asked to just turn as there was no point in doing a further inspection.

I am having the flanges cut off and the whole exhaust piping tucked closer into the chassis and also raising the car to a height which will clear the 90mm limit for the pit.

My car is well maintained mechanically.

I was just wondering if i would have an issue with FMIC and (intercooler piping), POD filter (secured at 2 different points) and bleed valve.

Mods to my 34 are as follows:

FMIC

POD Filter secured at 2 points

Bleed valve

Running stock boost (9psi)

3.5" HKS silent power exhaust

new Pirellis all round on 18's

Fully serviced

Any insight or previous experiences at the Dickson motor registry would be great as i don't want to throw more cash at these guys for another inspection fee of $80 plus the waiting time for a booking being 1-3 weeks.

Thanks! :action-smiley-069:

post-127522-0-41892200-1396712579_thumb.jpg

post-127522-0-43300000-1396712592_thumb.jpg

post-127522-0-83245600-1396712600_thumb.jpg

post-127522-0-13792000-1396712610_thumb.jpg

post-127522-0-97421100-1396712624_thumb.jpg

post-127522-0-67498700-1396712649_thumb.jpg

post-127522-0-05773600-1396712660_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441539-r34-going-over-the-pits/
Share on other sites

Yeah i'll just remove it then, better than them having another excuse to do me over. I'm just worried about this piping.. i'm sure there are no holes cut into the chassis, just underneath the battery tray. I was just hoping for some peoples personal experiences at the pits.

do you know what brand of FMIC kit is on the car?

if you are standing at the front of the car looking at the bonnet follow the pipe coming out of the left of the cooler and see how it runs into your engine bay...

If it runs through any hole that has been cut by the previous owner then you are going to have troubles.... :unsure:

I just checked out the intercooler piping, it does go through a 4by5 cm hole to the right of the battery tray (not underneath). Sorry i am a complete noob! haha, hence why i am here. Could someone direct me or tell me how, or if i can get this fixed without the installation of a new FMIC. Is getting sheet metal welded on and spraying it the factory colour acceptable, or do i have to have everything engineered regardless of improvements.

Again sorry guys i am a beginner to everything in regards to turbo cars. Thanks!

All good mate, got to start somewhere and learn...

My opinion: I suggest you buy a standard SMIC (Side mount intercooler) which will come with standard piping etc and fit that. Then remove your FMIC and all piping and take to a garage for them to fit and weld a metal patch over the hole cut. This may all still not be enough. The idea here is to try and make it all look standard and hope they dont even notice the patch job..

Once you pass then you can put your FMIC kit back on and sell the SMIC and piping. Example of a SMIC on ebay that would do the job:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-INTERCOOLER-R34-12-96-04-96-97-98-99-00-01-02-03-04-/271359647064?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2e4b9d58&_uhb=1

Hope that helps...

do you need any help or advice on removing the bleed valve and re-connecting your stock solenoid? (hoping they have left it mounted in your engine bay, if not you will also need to grab one off ebay....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-R34-Skyline-GTT-Factory-Boost-Solenoid-/290818707557?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b6255065&_uhb=1

Edited by mic087

Thanks so much for the advice, i am aiming for 3 weeks or less for it to go over the pits, so time is of the essence.

I'll have a look to see if the factory boost solenoid is still there and i will also look into reinstalling the SMIC.

Thanks again!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...