Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I do agree on all thatyou just said, also overpriced for what you get.

Buying the name only sometimes!

It does pay to shop around too as I've found nearly all manufacturers have good stuff and junk also.

Lol. Rightio mate. I'm not talking OEM parts, I'm talking what often is expensive stuff, aftermarket gear. I'll give you an example.

HKS step two valve springs used with an aggressive custom made cam valve floated at around 5500 at 20 psi on my own engine. Pulled them out along with the mega dollar Jun Ti retainers and put in a a set from camtech. Not only did it not valve float but the retainers fit the spring much better, also 1/3rd the price!

Exhausts, you'd be crazy not to get a custom one made. It'll fit better and not really be much more expensive.

Nice pretty sard fuel rail - doesn't have a seat for the injectors to but up against. Waste of cash.

Tomei manifolds - not worth the box they came in as they crack. I've personally done two sets and a mate has one off an Evo currently holding down the concrete in his garage. Cracked to hell.

That's only a few examples.

I agree, but some people don't believe in listening to experience these days Paul. It has a Jap brand name on it, must be good. Unfortunately most of their gear comes out of China now anyway, as with most products, and there are usually better parts around that don't have the Jap brand tax added.

The best thing you can do is let the engine builder/mechanic sort out the springs for you, he probably has more experience with parts that work well for your application. I have seen a few brand new valve springs snap lately after fitting, they are so high tensile these days it is getting commonplace. If you supply the parts you will have no 'warranty' when they fail. The spring supplier will only replace the spring, not fit it for you... Same goes for most parts.

Scotty, bit late now. It's all done and all works. They were a new grind of cam (aggressive ramp rates). Having said that, it didn't take much for you to push the spring down while the cams were out. Point is 'catalogue shopping' and taking the blind freddy approach that 'is jap, is good' definitely isn't the right way to do it.

Going a little off topic, back to pulling out VCT :P.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...