Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys if anyone can shed some light it will be greatly appreciated.

Firstly the car is a r33 gtst rb25det

Mods

Hypergear highflow (r34 op6)

660cc injectors

040 pump

Power fc

3 inch from turbo back

Return flow cooler

Splitfires

The problem:

Basically the car has been in and out of unigroup engineering when it was first put together it made 247kw at 15psi

Had a small manifold leak so they could not push it more since fixing that and going to push more boost through it, it now only makes 220kw at 20psi but the power drops off early around 5000 rpm they suspected a restriction in exhaust or a boost leak as they retard timing to compensate for more boost but the car wont react as in the timing is not changing.

Car is hitting the dyno again tomorrow with another cas just to rule that out but cant seem to pin point the problem.

Sorry again for the essay :P

Thanks michael

  • Like 1

There are two types of OP6 high flow. Most of the recently once made this year has the updated compressor and turbine whiles which is capable of making a lot more power. The older versions usually stops making power towards the 260rwkws mark, which your first dyno run sort of makes more sense.

Getting the most out of the turbocharger, 3 inches metal induction with a good pod is a must, as well as a proper cooler and free flow exhaust.

Because as they add more boost the car creates less power

sorry i'm a bit confused...on WOT they will set timing in the load areas of the map....the ecu won't change the timing unless they are hitting a water temperature threshold. so they up the boost and you aren't getting anymore power...do you have your dyno graph? that could show a bit more. mine made 229kw with a high flow but just made no more power when we added more boost.....(we really tried)

  • 2 weeks later...

Hmmm...here's my 2 cents.

The curve looks worse than it is due to the scale.

1. There is a big boost drop as revs rise. At 6000 to 6200rpm it is running 15-16psi. That is entirely consistent with the power level achieved. So I'd first be looking at tension on the wastegate spring. If it's adjustable I'd add 2 turns and see the result. It looks like electronic control - is the GAIN set too high?

2. I don't know the turbine/compressor size but I'm pretty sure they're not large enough to warrant a 4000rpm boost threshold. I'd mention to the tuner that they investigate the AFRs around boost threshold (and knowing at least a tiny bit about how SAU tune they'll need to richen it up a bit coming onto boost, preferably for 800rpm before too).

#1 should fix most of your power issue

#2 should fix the drivability - which is AT LEAST as important.

I'm not saying there aren't other issues going on but it doesn't look too bad considering the boost drop.

Other things to check:

1 - Is the VCT set correctly? Is it ON between approximately 1200 and 4800rpm ?

2 - Is it too lean in places? Better to err on the side of rich rather than lean.

Edited by simpletool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...