Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Recently I started having an issue with my HICAS, every couple of minutes the light would come on the dash(even when stationary) which would be followed by a fluctuation in revs and slight noise from the rear end. Now it has gotten a lot worse, when the HICAS light comes on now its very erratic, stiffens up my steering wheel and slightly jerking it and every now and then shuts down my stereo while the light is on the dash. Last night even switching my headlights on seemed to get a rise out of it. Could this be from a bad earth somewhere that is effecting these systems?

It has an aftermarket stereo and turbo timer fitted but they have been in for over a year now and problem is only around a month old.

I still have standard steering wheel and last mod was long before the issue started.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442956-hicas-creating-havok/
Share on other sites

Certainly sounds like a wiring issue. Being that HICAS components exist at the front and rear of the car, its going to be a bit of a pain to diagnose which part is causing it. Seen as its messing with your stereo and headlights I'd start inside the car, may have to pull the dash out and just have a look at all the wiring. Not very helpful but its a bit of a hard one to diagnose without being there

The #1 concern with these old HICAS computers these days will have to be whether the electrolytic capacitors inside them are still OK, or if they are dying and causing all sorts of other shit to fry in there. I'd be having my HICAS controller apart on the bench in seconds if mine started doing this.

How old is the battery?

Haver you checked the tension on the alternator belt? (R32 is notorious for not liking bad voltages).

Battery is only 1 year old still has good charge. I'll check the belt tension out

The #1 concern with these old HICAS computers these days will have to be whether the electrolytic capacitors inside them are still OK, or if they are dying and causing all sorts of other shit to fry in there. I'd be having my HICAS controller apart on the bench in seconds if mine started doing this.

I have had the controller open and everything looked sweet, didnt test the capacitors though.

I plan on getting a lockout kit in a couple of months but if theres an electrical issue somewhere I want to sort that otherwise I'll still be having issues elsewhere. Going to try and clean up current earth's and add another and checkover as much wiring as possible to see if I can find any damage

Edited by Spartan-117

Update,

on the way to auto electrician it died in the arse. 1km away SOB. Melted the fusible link off positive terminal. Definitely something not happy somewhere in the car.

I'll update with an outcome from sparky

The standard connections for the fusible links were the problem all along, seen bottom left in picture. Removed the standard connection and just put ring ends on wires and connected directly to battery.

They werent getting enough power from the standard aged connections so HICAS was first system to get the shits with it.

13917104415 bcf4ba2dfa B

All good now, no more warning lights no more dramas

Because this

What now? HICAS would be the exact opposite of what you want in a car to make that sort of driving enjoyable. The whole time you are flinging it sideways the bloody HICAS would be fighting you for control of the rear end because it has no idea what the hell you're doing.

HICAS is a miserable attempt to make a front heavy RWD chassis feel like it has faster turn in than it natively does. Below 7/10 driving its veneer of snappy turn in is acceptable. Above 7/10 it makes the car feel like it's trying to kill you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...