Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that depends. How much power and what boost level are you running? The factory spec motor is VERY strong. There's a guy on here making 680 HP at the wheels on a factory RB25neo bottom end.

Personally I wouldn't drop the cash on a rebuild until it's necessary

^^^^ this plus, why do you want that power, seriously from a person that keeps modifying, get it solid and drive it...

So man times i have been to track days or a texi and i guy that does better times is std r33 with more seat time...

Yes the economics is fix when it needs to be fixed . The only reason to build a Neo in an R33 block is to keep the original number , if that wasn't an issue I'd look for a Neo engine in good condition and run that - after the 33 engine expired .

Economics should take precedence over ideal unless people like being poor or have too much money to spend .

A .

I think you're missing the point too. No 2 R33 blocks would be expected to have the same sized bores and the same sized pistons, such that you can wantonly swap pistons from one to the other without checking to see if they match. Ever heard of manufacturing tolerances? How about piston grades? F'rigzample.....Nissan would receive thousands of pistons a week into the RB engine assembly plant. These would have all been made to the same spec at the same factory, yet nevertheless, they would have come in a variety of sizes. So they would have been sorted into various size bins, and the smallest ones would have been put into the smallest bores and the largest ones would have been put into the largest bores. There might have been only two bins, there might have been 6, it all depends on how good the manufacturing was and how anally retentive the famously anally retentive Japanese automotive engineers at Nissan were feeling.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...