Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Steering Upgrades. Questions?

jdm32r
 Share

Recommended Posts

jdm32r Enthusiast

jdm32r

Posted
Posted

hey guys was looking at fitting a r33 steering rack into my r32 gtst 4 door. can it be done without removing hicas bull;shit? and what tips and tricks you guys got for me?

also wanting to put r33 or r34 lower control arms in. 1. will the fit and 2. will they make a difference?

thanks John.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443080-r32-steering-upgrades-questions/
Share on other sites
bcozican Experienced

bcozican

Posted
Posted

If you want more steering lock im assuming drift or similar ?? even if not...take the hicas out fullstop

R33 rack will fit yes

If you want the most lock out a std rack for and r32 put a ca18de or even better an s14 steering rack in ... less turns lock to lock and little bit more lock, you'll need to re route lines a little but very easy

R33 , S14 front lower LCA's will both fit and are approx 10mm+ longer

the difference on all that is dependant on what adjustable arms, other suspension, ride height etc you have already

but all things being equal longer from LCA;s will induce more camber and widen current stance

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

If you are drifting and are looking to get the most out of the R32 steering (without spending ridiculous amounts of money) you will need

> R32 steering rack is fine, but R33/S14 is probably worth it if your current rack is no good.

> Getting your knuckles modified by JDI Fabrication in melbourne

> Longer tie rods (a requirement if you are getting your knuckles modified)

> Standard R32 tie rod ends are fine

> Steering rack spacers
> Modifying X-member to move the steering rack forward
> R33/S14 lower control arms as they are 10mm longer

All of these are about as far as you can take it without getting ridiculous. The longer tie rods you need come from an A33 maxima and have a part number of RE1050, the standard tie rod ends are fine.

m2QN61A.jpg

I just received my R33 LCA's today and measured them as there was a lot of grey info on the net about them. They are almost exactly 10mm longer and the bump stop is a concave shape as opposed to the R32 item which is straight, effectively allowing more steering angle before it hits bump stops.

GKRrZdT.jpg

And here is the crossmember when it has had the steering rack mount moved forwards 15mm

Image0101.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      This sounds like a perfect excuse to install a Haltech R3.
    • Kinkstaah
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • GTSBoy
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • WR33KD
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By WR33KD · Posted

      I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
×
×
  • Create New...