Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Greetings Folks.

I have recently picked up a 1993 R32 sedan with a RB25det Neo conversion that was 99% complete.

I just need a couple of things to finish her off and get it back on the road.

I'm sure this topic has been covered thousands of times, however after extensive use of the search function I still can't come up with a definitive answer.

What accelerator cable will fit the conversion?

I know a R31 will not fit, I've purchased 1 and it is way too long.

The motor has a godspeed front facing plenum and a 80mm aftermarket throttle body.

If there is a link to a thread could someone please provide me with it?

Thanks in advance

Cody

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443081-r32-sedan-rb25det-neo-conversion/
Share on other sites

This has nothing to do with whether it's a Neo conversion or not. My Neo in my R32 uses the original R32 cable, because the throttle body is in the same place!

did you read my post at all?

it has everything to do with a Neo conversion, as it is a neo conversion in the car.

also congrats to your 32. If you had of actually read my post, you would see that I have a front facing plenum installed. Therefore the throttle body is no longer in the same position.

if you want to be a keyboard warrior mate, I suggest you go jump on boostcruising.

Lol.

How does the fact it's a neo matter?

It's the different plenum that has caused your cable issue. Not the neo.

I concur this has nothing to do with neo conversion and everything to do with forward facing plenum conversion.

All the best figuring out your terribly difficult and confusing issue.

I did help.

?

Don't confuse the neo conversion with the ffp conversion.

Search what cable people use with a ffp.

Or better yet ditch the ffp and run the stock one. Then cable issues sorted.

Edited by superben

This is relevant to my interests. I presumed the standard cable would be long enough to reach. Any info on this appreciated.

Just measure up how long you need go down to pick-a part (some auto wrecker) and find one that approximates.

I've done a neo conversion with R32 rb20det computer, what else needs to be done that you haven't got to yet?

You will need either an ECU that can control the VCT or a window switch to do so, the ignitors and the CAS also won't plug into the stock loom, or have you transplanted an R34 loom?

And just cause i was being helpful i looked up the maxima i got mine from and it was a 95-99 model, was exactl same fittings as an r33 but longer

For future peoples that search for this...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...