Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey there, have just got my s2 rb25det r32 running..
its pretty much standard apart from fmic, splitfire coilpaks, alloy rad, 3inch striaght pipe exhaust etc.
it idles perfectly... but when driving it splatters/coughs doesnt boost etc. you can drive without hitting turbo but with foot flat down or like 30% throttle plus it missfires splatters and all that like crazy making backfire noises and such. does it in every gear aswell. it idles perfect never dies when coming to a stop or anything. i recently changed rad, thermostat, exhaust pipe recently. all lines im pretty sure are plumbed in correctly. one thing i did do was move the cas when i took the timing cover off. could that be it? but yea it idles perfectly its just when trying to drive or accelerate at 2500revs plus the problems start. it revs fine when not in gear too.. another note the conversion was only just recently done maybe a couple months ago but was first driven today since installed. i only just started it yesterday. will try to play around with a few things tomorrow but yea im no mechanic so help would be good.. thanks for reading and any help will be much appreciated

Check for boost leaks.

Search how to pressure test.

What ecu?

It isn't likely to be caused by moving the cas, but you have to set the timing with a timing light.

Edited by Ben C34

Yea get a timing light and check timing due to you have moved cas and check AFM, get done contact cleaner and spray it inside AFM cleaning all the crap off, let it sit for abit allowing contact cleaner to fully dry up and re-install it and away u go, had that issue with my S1 25det r33

thankyou for the replies guys, yea have been told its mostlikely the afm so will clean as it as said above and go from there. ^ and then i will try sort the timing out. once again appreciate the help!!

  • 6 years later...
On 19/05/2014 at 1:25 PM, brandysnaps117 said:

thankyou for the replies guys, yea have been told its mostlikely the afm so will clean as it as said above and go from there. ^ and then i will try sort the timing out. once again appreciate the help!!

I take it that it was the AFM as this was last reply on thread?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...