Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's so cool. Sounds like I'll give it a try one day. I like the ideas of how it sounds guys. A whole 50 degrees. Yep that would help the response for sure. I just don't like the price of the hks unit. Also the fact that it's variable was a good point to bring up. I'll definitely check this out for my future street gtr. Retro fitting the the VQ25 until to fit that also interesting idea. Has anyone seen this done. If it can even be done at half the price would be a good new topic to start.

It could almost be done for free if you had the tools. Tuning it may be a little harder. Not sure if you would need the cam position sensor for feedback...

It has never even been looked at afaik.

As sweet as it sounds in theory, in reality I bet it would be an overly expensive mod that would make tuning more difficult as well as bring up problems and gremlins.

If it was me id spend the money on really good turbos that best suit the desired outcome, other supporting mods (good actuators, ebc, pipes etc) as well as really good tuning.

As sweet as it sounds in theory, in reality I bet it would be an overly expensive mod that would make tuning more difficult as well as bring up problems and gremlins.

If it was me id spend the money on really good turbos that best suit the desired outcome, other supporting mods (good actuators, ebc, pipes etc) as well as really good tuning.

If it were me it would cost nothing to set it up mechanically. I just have no idea how to actuate it properly.

VCT on the other hand is easy to actuate.

You can set your cams up however you like, but you can never have response and power, just something in between. If you had driven my car with the cams actuating then not, you would realise the difference 40 degrees advance/retard makes to efficiency and spool.

You could always put an RB25neo in there. :P

As we have discussed, that is a kit to hand it to you on a plate. All you need is a VCT actuator and a good fabricator/engineer to shove it in there, no need to spend 7k unless you wanted to sell multiple kits off yourself.

meh, who needs vct when you have 3L!

esp a built 3L with E85 n a sweet turbo on it!

Do you have a 3l?

I have a 2530 neo in my stage a and there's no way I would do without vct.

no but iv driven one (25/30) a bit that was fully built, very well tuned and putting down 500hpatw.

I couldn't complain about the torque curve at all... now thinking back I cannot remember if it did or did not have the VCT. maybe it did...

but this is a slightly different equation. as the OP was regarding GTRs with VCT. For a 25 head and the fact it was already there I would indeed put the effort in to retain it, even in a 2530 build. For GTR's /26 head, and the cost of getting it in and working, no I would not. Hence saying I would spend the money on some other aspects of the car.

Edited by jjman

Response is a pretty big aspect of how a car drives. It would help with midrange response and power which is worth more imo than top end on a road car. What if it could be done for $500, would it be worth it then? Perhaps someone should look into it further and work out exactly what's needed, and what it would cost to be made in bulk. The market is definitely there for a short production run I would think, especially if the positive results could be proven. If I had a head here I would look into it myself.

I guess it comes down to how cashed up you are, and how early you want the 26 to spool.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...