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Shouldn't directly fix any bump steer issues that HICAS equipment in good condition wouldn't have. I'm not sure you understand what you're looking at or perhaps I'm not sure I understand what you're getting at. What that kit does is remove the HICAS rack and the tie rods. You replace the rack with the two brackets and the tie rods get replaced with those toe control rods (or drag links in horrible Americanlish) and you use them to set the toe in-out. It effectively becomes more like a non-HICAS chassis car than a HICAS chassis car with a lock bar. Still not legal, but better in many ways. Paint it all matte black and nobody would know it wasn't factory.

I had a ride height of 325mm and when we measured the bump steer on the rear it wasnt great. Part of the reason why my new rear end is the more proven method of lowering the car onto the cradle rather than lowering the ride height as seemingly helps maintain more std like geometry.

So , I am curious to know since these are referred to as drag links whether they are tailored to help maintain optimum geometry for traction on drag GTRs. Or whether they maintain the exact same geometry as std HICAS

Drag link is a specific term that is a hangover from when steering systems used to have recirculating ball steering boxes, Pitman arms, idler arms and all that crap. These things are not proper drag links. They are the equivalent of the old HICAS tie rods and the equivalent of the non-HICAS toe control rods. They have nothing to do with drag racing. They do not affect any part of the suspension geometry other than that they are used to set the toe angle, which for drag racing would probably be slightly toe in (static) so that they go to zero toe when under power/motion.

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